A dry and windless day in late October was just too good an opportunity to miss and so on Sunday, it was off to Froggatt Edge with Sam and Lester of course......have I mentioned my crag dog? Loved by all, I've bumped into folk on crags who recognise Lester 'oh look there's Lester'.....me, not a second glance!......Jealous much?! Anyway, I digress and he gets enough attention at the crag anyway!
We decided on Froggatt a place I hadn't been to in 25 years or more and Sam had never visited so one way or another we were in for something different. Very quickly I decided that if nothing else, it was worth the visit, just to highlight to me how aerobically unfit I am! I really need to get my legs motoring more often because I have to confess, I found the walk up to the crag, bloody hard work! But we got there and I managed to avoid a massive coronary too.
Sam was to lead the first route, a severe 4a called Sickle Buttress, an interesting looking route with a bit of variety. A tricky finger crack leads to sloping ledges leading out right. There is a choice here, to smear on the slopers to a semi mantle onto a good ledge below the final groove or climb a move or 2 higher to a good flake and arguably better footholds and then make a traverse out right to the same ledge. As we geared up I was again amazed at how busy the place was, seriously, it was like somebody had just opened the gates. People seemed to emerge from the footpath at the foot of the crag, one after another for what seemed like ages. Pretty soon, folk were queuing for routes. Sam had barely gotten off the ground when 2 chaps parked themselves next to us announcing they were looking to do the route after us. Now Sam is like me in respect of not really liking a crowd scene whilst climbing and in particular, an audience! I also don't think it's polite is it? I mean who needs that added pressure? No reason why people can't wait a bit of a distance away at the very least. Anyhow, I knew they would be bothering Sam and so politely told them they were welcome to wait but that we were likely to be some time and they might be better seeking out an alternative, which option they thankfully chose.
The damage had been done though. I could see Sam was struggling a bit. A new venue, unfamiliar territory and an audience and it was enough to have unsettled her. I'll say 1 thing here. In all the time I've climbed with Sam, I've only ever seen her back off one lead and that wasn't through not going for it, it was a tough VS 4c which she just couldn't do. So it was sad to see her unable to continue and I lowered her to the ground from gear. Knowing what was going through her mind, having been there many times, it's incredibly frustrating knowing there is nothing you can do except encourage and hope they manage to battle through it.
I finished off the lead and Sam followed no problem at all. This was all about the head and nothing to do with being able to do the route, on another day, she would walk that lead no problem!
The view from Sickle Buttress
We decided to move down the crag to try and find somewhere a bit quieter but pretty much every lower grade route with a star against it had queues of folk waiting to do them, it was like Alton Towers! We managed to find a V Diff called Solomons Crack. A broken blocky ramp leads fairly awkwardly to a decent ledge and then there is a final tricky corner. I thought it best to try and get Sam leading again as soon as possible, using the falling off the bike get straight back on mantra. It didn't work. Sam managed to get to the ledge above the ramp but she just wasn't in the right place for leading headwise and so she down climbed and I finished off the lead.
We discussed the possibility of another route but really, neither of us were that enthusiastic by now! The crag was busy and the sun was getting lower anyway and so we did what all good climbers must do from time to time.......we retired to the pub for a pint!
I had a good day! Being outside, in beautiful countryside with great company, ticks the boxes for me. I was more concerned that Sam hadn't enjoyed herself!
The next day, with 2 different partners, Sharon ( a regular participant in this blog and Nathan, another I've met through the LCC club). We chose to go to Troy Quarry. I'd been extolling the virtues of this magnificent place to anyone who would listen and both Sharon and Nathan were intrigued.
On arriving with Nathan (we met Sharon at the crag), I was worried that I'd over sold the place, would it live up to Nathans expectations. I needn't have worried!
We actually took the wrong path to the crag (out of a choice of 2!.....maybe guiding isn't for me then!) which led us to the top of the crag rather than it's base. What an entrance! A magnificent vista of the whole crag unfolded before us and I could see immediately Nathan was stunned......the jaw drop and speed the camera came out were the give aways!
taken by Nathan on our approach, fantastic photo, stunning view!
Sharon arrived about 2 minutes after we did and so we were soon eyeing up the first route. I'd led Left Siamese Twin on my previous visit and so when Nathan decided to go for Right Siamese Twin at the same grade (S 4a) I was happy to follow, well, when the opportunity arises to 'do' twins........
Nathan led it nicely and on seconding it, it proved to be a lovely route, not unlike Left but with a nicer top out, exposed but with good gear throughout. Sharon followed up too and having not been sure if she would climb or not today, she loved the route and we were soon contemplating the next!
Unfortunately, and slightly weirdly, an outdoor group arrived and began throwing top ropes down a load of stuff in the bay we were in. They then didn't climb much before pulling the ropes and heading off! Not really sure what it was all about but hey, they'd gone and we had this magnificent place to ourselves again.
I wasn't sure if I wanted to lead today having climbed the day before (in fact 4 out of 5 days climbing, at nearly 50, was taking its toll a tad!) but I spotted a little VS 4c called Little Sneak. A thin fingery crack, nice and steep leads to an overhang, a shuffle left to skirt this, a ledge and final short groove finished the route. This would be my first VS 4c lead for around 25 years.....if I managed it!
I set off up the crack expecting a bit of a battle but, and there's 2 schools of thought here, either I'm climbing much better than I think I am or the route wasn't 4c! I found it really nice, a little technical, couple of tricky moves leading to the OH but, in no time, I found myself on the ledge below the final groove. In the groove itself is a perfect slot for a micro wire......of which I had none! So having fumbled around for a bit, I placed the worst cam ever in a slot/pocket in the wall and topped out. I was extremely happy! This was a big milestone for me, a great leap forward and confirmation of how far I'd come this summer.......is it or isn't it 4c? Well the guide says 4c so who am I to argue!
The headless climber, above the crux and about to make the move onto the ledge on Little Sneak VS 4c
Sharon approaching the ledge on Little Sneak......the concentration!
Seconded by Nathan and followed also by Sharon we were all now warming to the occasion. So much so in fact that Miss 'I might not climb today', was now eyeing up a lead herself, as Nathan put it 'buoyed by the psyche of the little sneak'!
She chose One Way Street S 4a, a corner route with a nice crack section lower down but a rather loose looking top!
Sharon on One Way Street S 4a Nathan belaying......Lester the crag dog paying not a blind bit of notice
The 'money shot'.....Sharon topping out on One way Street
She cruised it in some style and was clearly loving the joys of Troy!
Nathan and myself followed, the top proving to be not as loose as it looked although some care was needed. And so it was down to choose the final route of the day. Nathan had his eye on about 4 routes and was like a kid in a sweet shop, spoilt for choice and wanting it all! He narrowed it down to 2 and then 1, the one being Rapunzle VS 5a. I was delighted he chose this. I'd seen the line on my first visit and what a perfectly named route! Another thin crack leads to 'the window' and there the maiden may or may not let down her hair. If she does you are in luck, but if she doesn't and you can't use her hair to climb, then you have a bit of a struggle to enter and leave said aperture!
As seems quite usual for this quarry, a short final crack/groove complete the route.
Nathan led it superbly and announced he'd made the right decision, the route was well worth it's 2 stars. I seconded the route and I agree, in fact a little longer and/or the crux being nearer the top and I think this would get 3 *'s its that good! A tricky crux, technical but nothing too taxing, a lovely climb. I did have to be taken on the rope to free both arms to remove a rather solid nut placement though!
Nathan setting off up Rapunzle VS 5a
Just after the crux on Rapunzle
Sharon also followed and after one fall on the crux, managed it second go no problem and cruised to the top out.
So, it was happily and with 2 new Troy devotees added to the list, that we packed our gear and set off for home.
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