It was an amazing day weather wise again, the sun just starting to break through the early morning cloud when we arrived. Nathan and I had a kind of plan of action and headed straight up to the upper tier.....me having to nearly drag Nathan away from Valkyrie, one for another time maybe! But, if any part of the crag was to get the sun it would be the upper tier. It was the right choice!
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| Glorious sunshine on the upper tier |
We started on Maudes Garden, 3 *'s HVD 3c, my lead. After the steady introduction back onto rock last weekend at Almscliffe, I was keen to get stuck in and see where my head was at and at 14m, this would be a good test for me.
The first section, a slab, is the technical crux and the gear isn't all that great but taking my time, concentrating on the moves, I made it up to the crack and some good gear. Up this and onto the huge ledge where traditionally the belay is set up when doing the route in 2 pitches. I decided to do it all in one though. After faffing around with a thread I made my way up through the gully, it was time to step out into space and onto the arête above the overhang. This was the test for me. It was really nice. Stepping round the corner felt exposed but it felt good too and I was soon topping out. Nathan soon followed and it was onto the next route.
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| Nathan and Lester scoping the area |
We'd picked a kind of tick wish list but unfortunately by now, and with the sun in full bloom, the crag was becoming busy and lots of routes had teams on them. So we came up with a plan B. Damascus Crack at HS is only a 1* route but I don't think it tells the whole story! I could tell Nathan wasn't all that keen at first glance.....until I pointed to the alternative VS finish up a steep bulge system and over a final overhang, and he was now a lot more enthusiastic!
The first section is a thin finger crack in the slab giving varied climbing using the crack and various small holds on the face either side. This then leads up to a large grassy ledge at 3/4 height. The original route heads off right from here to the summit and is, as the 1* suggests, a bit of an anti climax. However, we headed left, into a v groove, over a bulge the left out onto the face and over the final overhang. It's 2 *s at least for me. Thin fingery crack/slab climbing followed by steep jamming and pulling over bulges, with an exposed and airy (albeit well protected) finish, what's not to like! Nathan lead it comfortably and seemed to thoroughly enjoy himself. I followed and really enjoyed this route, the final top out being interesting! Not one for a gripped climber this, a steady head, good foot positioning and the holds appear and it's not as taxing as it first appears!
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| quick bite to eat.....and eyeing up 'The Sloth' |
A quick bite of lunch and then onto the next. Again routes were taken by other teams. Nathan was eyeing up Technical Slab and so we moved over to The Sloth area and I chose Right Route at VD. At first glance, it looks a bit of slime fest this route but actually it's nothing of the sort, it doesn't get 3*'s for nothing! The route follows the LH side of the giant flake which bounds the RH of Sloth buttress. But although it uses the flake as a kind of handrail, you keep left, on the wall face itself until a final traverse right under the huge roof and onto a large sloping ledge. The 2nd pitch then traverses back out above the o/h and a finish up a short crack. The climbing up to the ledge was really nice, not the best gear til about mid height but all the holds are there and I was soon setting up belay on the ledge. Again Nathan followed and soon joined me on there. We opted out of the last pitch feeling it was too much of a faff sorting the belay out and pulling through 2 60m ropes for what was essentially 15feet of climbing! I'd wanted to do the route in one really but rope drag would've been a problem on the upper pitch that way. So we scrambled the final section above us and made our way down.
Last up and Nathans lead was technical slab HS 4a. Yet another classic and 3*'s. the first section of the route, the slab from which its name comes, is the crux. Sparse gear calling for careful thought and placement is required. Nathan made light work of it and was soon up to the traverse of Pedestal Route from where the difficulties lesson somewhat. Above the o/h he chose the alternative finish and a short traverse out onto the right wall and up in exposed finish to the top out. I followed and was soon at the point where in the guide book the dreaded 'harder for the short' move was! One move but really thought provoking and on lead I'd imagine quite scary! Crimps for the hands and just glorious grit friction for the feet allows a step up to good holds and relief! I opted out of the alternative finish and came straight up the normal finish. I'm not sure why really? I was tired at this point I think and just didn't fancy it but that's not to say I didn't really enjoy the route because I did. The meat of the route, the slab, is fantastic and a good intro to this kind of climbing for any aspiring grit devotee!
We called it a day then, the sun was dropping fast and it was becoming a bit chilly. I think we had a wonderful day1 It's not often you get to tick 3 3* routes in one sitting! From a personal view, I was pleased with my climbing. On lead I was steady, taking my time and there is no doubt the 'brain training' is working. I noticed for the first time, on both Maudes Garden and Right Route, that when the scared voices start, my brain is now automatically taking control and telling them to be quiet. Composing myself, sorting my position out, breathing, are now all happening automatically to a certain degree and that is really satisfying. This was a big day for me.
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| end of the day view |
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