Froggatt Edge, Wonderful Froggatt Edge!

So Nathan and I headed out to Froggatt Edge in the Peak. Our club weekend meet at Pembroke had been cancelled due to the weather ,but with good weather forecast for the Friday, it would be remiss of us not to jump on something!

The weather did not disappoint and neither did the climbing. This was a fantastic day!

In the car on the way over, we were discussing boldness and the importance of the head being in the right place. I KNOW I'm not a bold climber, yet! But it surprised me a little to hear Nathan say he didn't feel like a bold climber either as I'd always thought the opposite in fairness. So we were a little unsure how the day would pan out, we both wanted to push ourselves but let's see where the head is at.

So in the spirit of this pushing ourselves, I jumped straight into a HS 4b, Sunset Crack. Quite a big lead for me, especially as a 'warm up' and this early in the season too. It was excellent! I loved every minute, a great route with a tricky crux at the sharp end although well protected. A nice intro to Froggatt for Nathan aswell, the key to Froggatt being friction trusting, body positioning and footwork. Any weaknesses in technique will be found out quickly and as a side note, later in the day, we saw a chap, 'cheesegrate' his way down a slab a few times due purely and simply to poor technique. His body way to close to the rock for a slab, heels too high so the friction not being allowed to work its magic. A bit of coaching from below and we got him up it! If ever there was an example of an indoor climber not knowing what the hell to do on rock, this was it...folks, climbing on rock is completely different from climbing on those brightly coloured concrete holds at the wall so get yourselves on an indoors to outdoors transition course, you'll enjoy the experience far more and unlike this chap, you'll get to keep the skin on your shins!

Next up was Nathans lead and I think buoyed by my jumping straight in at the deep end, he chose Sunset Slab HVS 4b........yes you heard me right, HVS 4b! Technically no harder than the route I'd lead but, as the grade suggests, a lot bolder! Amble up the lower slab, place last piece of gear at half height and then contemplate the moves onto the unprotected (and desperate to reverse!) upper slab. this was a really good lead by Nathan. I seconded and found the moves really really nice, balancey and with not much for hands, it's all about the feet and friction. I was able to just enjoy the route and the moves being safe but this would be an entirely different proposition on lead so hats off to Nathan!

Sunset Slab, Sunset Crack takes the crack and groove to the right

My turn again and continuing the spirit of pushing ourselves, I chose Allens Slab S 4a. Supposedly 'easier' than my last lead but the guidebook description 'bolder than you might be expecting', was the thing that attracted me, time to get right out of my comfort zone!

The route starts up an easy crack to around half height, all nice and easy and safe. A flake crack veers off to the right and balancy moves up this gain the high horizontal break which traverses right to finish up the final headwall. I fixed my last piece of gear in the safety of the first crack and stepped out onto the flake moving nicely and smoothly up to the break. I was now a good 15ft from my last gear and there was no prospect of any for at least another 10ft or so! Last Summer, I'd have panicked here, no doubt about it. I didn't panic at all though. I spotted a placement lower down on the flake which I'd missed on the way up. I down climbed a couple of moves, placed the gear and moved on, no dramas! The rest was just really nice, another piece in the break and then up the final headwall to the top out. S 4a but I was elated! This was a necky lead for me and I managed to do it with no fuss at all, I was very happy!

Allens Slab....the team to the right are on a VS that I'll be jumping on next visit!

This was now becoming a bit of a competition, the pair of us pushing the other onto bigger and better stuff and Nathan chose the crème de la crème of slab routes as his next lead, the wonderful 3 Pebble Slab HVS 5a. This routes reputation precedes it like maybe no other and its grade has long been a contentious issue.....is it E1 or HVS?! Chatting with climbers who have done the route and you'll get one of 2 reactions, " fantastic route, loved it" or more commonly, " never again!"

Nice moves up the lower slab lead to a slight bulge and a nice pocket for gear......the last piece of gear you'll get by the way! Now the fun starts! This route is not for those who have never climbed grit slabs before, the techniques needed for this climb can never be learned at an indoor wall. Slopey crimps for hands and just pure friction for feet. A high rockover to the right leaves you perched below the final gearless slab. 10-15ft of pure adrenalin fuelled fun complete the route. Nathan stood on the last good foothold for a while contemplating the final moves and composing himself. I saw from below that he'd found what seemed the best 'smear' for his left foot " That's the one, do it, go for it now" I shouted up in encouragement.......and he did, that was all it took! He was up and quite obviously and quite rightly too, very very pleased with himself. A wonderful lead it really was. I seconded and enjoyed of every second of that wonderful climb! If anyone ever asks you what climbing on grit is like, point them in the direction of 3PS!

the wonderful 3PS!

Last route of the day and a warm down route (having had an intensive coaching session the night before, I was by now feeling pretty ruined it has to be said). We decided on Heather Wall HVD 3c and another 3 star classic! A lovely route and just the relaxing climbing we needed for a warm down.

So what had been a day hastily thrown together from the wreckage of a cancelled club meet turned out to be one of the best days climbing I've had, ever. Normally when climbing, I've found it quite rare that all members of the party are feeling, well, up to it so to have a day where both of us were at the top of our game was just fantastic!

The Roaches

So much history, both from a general climbing standpoint and also for me personally. The Roaches was where I did my first ever climb ( I say 'did', I was 11 and failed miserably and had to be lowered off!). It was also where I did my first lead climb, at 13. It's been some years since I've been back to the place, probably mid 80's I'd say was the last time I was there!

It was an amazing day weather wise again, the sun just starting to break through the early morning cloud when we arrived. Nathan and I had a kind of plan of action and headed straight up to the upper tier.....me having to nearly drag Nathan away from Valkyrie, one for another time maybe! But, if any part of the crag was to get the sun it would be the upper tier. It was the right choice!



Glorious sunshine on the upper tier

We started on Maudes Garden, 3 *'s HVD 3c, my lead. After the steady introduction back onto rock last weekend at Almscliffe, I was keen to get stuck in and see where my head was at and at 14m, this would be a good test for me.

The first section, a slab, is the technical crux and the gear isn't all that great but taking my time, concentrating on the moves, I made it up to the crack and some good gear. Up this and onto the huge ledge where traditionally the belay is set up when doing the route in 2 pitches. I decided to do it all in one though. After faffing around with a thread I made my way up through the gully, it was time to step out into space and onto the arête above the overhang. This was the test for me. It was really nice. Stepping round the corner felt exposed but it felt good too and I was soon topping out. Nathan soon followed and it was onto the next route.



Nathan and Lester scoping the area

We'd picked a kind of tick wish list but unfortunately by now, and with the sun in full bloom, the crag was becoming busy and lots of routes had teams on them. So we came up with a plan B. Damascus Crack at HS is only a 1* route but I don't think it tells the whole story! I could tell Nathan wasn't all that keen at first glance.....until I pointed to the alternative VS finish up a steep bulge system and over a final overhang, and he was now a lot more enthusiastic!

The first section is a thin finger crack in  the slab giving varied climbing using the crack and various small holds on the face either side. This then leads up to a large grassy ledge at 3/4 height. The original route heads off right from here to the summit and is, as the 1* suggests, a bit of an anti climax. However, we headed left, into a v groove, over a bulge the left out onto the face and over the final overhang. It's 2 *s at least for me. Thin fingery crack/slab climbing followed by steep jamming and pulling over bulges, with an exposed and airy (albeit well protected) finish, what's not to like! Nathan lead it comfortably and seemed to thoroughly enjoy himself. I followed and really enjoyed this route, the final top out being interesting! Not one for a gripped climber this, a steady head, good foot positioning and the holds appear and it's not as taxing as it first appears!



quick bite to eat.....and eyeing up 'The Sloth'

A quick bite of lunch and then onto the next. Again routes were taken by other teams. Nathan was eyeing up Technical Slab and so we moved over to The Sloth area and I chose Right Route at VD. At first glance, it looks a bit of slime fest this route but actually it's nothing of the sort, it doesn't get 3*'s for nothing! The route follows the LH side of the giant flake which bounds the RH of Sloth buttress. But although it uses the flake as a kind of handrail, you keep left, on the wall face itself until a final traverse right under the huge roof and onto a large sloping ledge. The 2nd pitch then traverses back out above the o/h and a finish up a short crack. The climbing up to the ledge was really nice, not the best gear til about mid height but all the holds are there and I was soon setting up belay on the ledge. Again Nathan followed and soon joined me on there. We opted out of the last pitch feeling it was too much of a faff sorting the belay out and pulling through 2 60m ropes for what was essentially 15feet of climbing! I'd wanted to do the route in one really but rope drag would've been a problem on the upper pitch that way. So we scrambled the final section above us and made our way down.

Last up and Nathans lead was technical slab HS 4a. Yet another classic and 3*'s. the first section of the route, the slab from which its name comes, is the crux. Sparse gear calling for careful thought and placement is required. Nathan made light work of it and was soon up to the traverse of Pedestal Route from where the difficulties lesson somewhat. Above the o/h he chose the alternative finish and a short traverse out onto the right wall and up in exposed finish to the top out. I followed and was soon at the point where in the guide book the dreaded 'harder for the short' move was! One move but really thought provoking and on lead I'd imagine quite scary! Crimps for the hands and just glorious grit friction for the feet allows a step up to good holds and relief! I opted out of the alternative finish and came straight up the normal finish. I'm not sure why really? I was tired at this point I think and just didn't fancy it but that's not to say I didn't really enjoy the route because I did. The meat of the route, the slab, is fantastic and a good intro to this kind of climbing for any aspiring grit devotee!

We called it a day then, the sun was dropping fast and it was becoming a bit chilly. I think we had a wonderful day1 It's not often you get to tick 3 3* routes in one sitting! From a personal view, I was pleased with my climbing. On lead I was steady, taking my time and there is no doubt the 'brain training' is working. I noticed for the first time, on both Maudes Garden and Right Route, that when the scared voices start, my brain is now automatically taking control and telling them to be quiet. Composing myself, sorting my position out, breathing, are now all happening automatically to a certain degree and that is really satisfying. This was a big day for me.



end of the day view

Almscliffe

First trip outside onto rock since October.......has to be Almscliffe then!

Almscliffe. The very mention of the name in trad climbing circles produces one of 2 reactions......either their eyes light up and a broad smile appears across their faces, or, their eyes glaze over, maybe a tear appears, as they remember the one and only time they went to Almscliffe and had sworn never to return! the latter is by far the most common reaction!

It has a bit of a reputation does Almscliffe you see. Back in the day, it was not uncommon to see competent peak VS leaders retreating bloodied and mauled from an Almscliffe V Diff! Nowadays, the guide book Gods have tamed the beast to a great extent, with all routes now pretty much graded correctly. But that doesn't mean the place should be taken lightly. It's walls are steep, it's slabs are few and blank, it's cracks will swallow you and your gear as soon as look at you. It is gritstone of the finest quality though and wonderful stuff!

Having had my first coaching session on the Thursday before this trip, I was keen to transfer my new found skills onto rock.

Nathan and myself travelled over together and met up with 2 other members of the Lancashire Climbing and Caving Club (yes a Lancashire cross border raiding party......I even had on my 'Lancashire Rock Revival' t shirt!) Tony and Sarah who very kindly organised the meet. It was my first proper meet with the club and it was good to meet other members and even better that everyone I met were lovely folk!

We'd brought both trad gear and a bouldering mat Nathan and myself, not really knowing what to expect either weather wise or in terms of how we were climbing and what we fancied doing. In the end it was a sort of hybrid day, some trad some bouldering.

We started by warming up on a boulder. Just getting used to the feel of rock again after so long indoors on concrete, savouring the gritstone friction that no concrete hold will ever be able to reproduce! It was just great it really was, being back on rock and with my new found skills too. It was all feeling so natural, the movement and precision, the balance, I felt like I could actual climb.

We decided to have a bash on the main crag and Nathan took first lead up 'Fluted Columns' HVD on Low Man. A nice route, with decent protection and a typical grit top out on rounded holds. Nathan was soon up with no problems and I followed in similar style.

My turn to lead and I chose another HVD along the wall to the right, 'Stew Pot'. The route takes a direct line up a wall passing a hole to a break. A tricky move on rounded holds leads to a ledge from where a short crack finishes the route off. I really enjoyed leading it and it felt well within my comfort zone which for my first lead after 6 months, I was really quite pleased about. Nathan flew up after me and we descended to our kit and a brew to decide our next plan.

In the end it was quite an easy decision. The crag was now busy, very busy, with teams on pretty much all the popular routes. So we decided to put away the ropes and get the mat out once again and try to find a quiet spot away from the masses.

We found a little slab with 4 or 5 different problems up it and bounded by a side wall with another decent looking problem with a crappy landing. I've no idea of the grades but none felt particularly difficulty, an arête on the slab being the most tricky. We had fun flashing them all though!

We had another peek at the main crag to see if we could seek out a final route of the day but it was still covered in climbers and after pottering around a while longer, we decided to call it a day and head for home.

We'd only done 2 routes and yet I had a fantastic time. The weather was perfect, t shirts in March. I was climbing well, nothing at all hard, but it all felt good. The company was excellent, I'm looking forward to more meets with LCCC. Another excellent day in th'ills!

Taking the Coaching Plunge!

I booked some coaching lessons for rock climbing. I'd reached a plateau that I couldn't seem to improve from and decided that it was maybe something I wasn't seeing. I knew I was strong ish but what I didn't know, really, was just how good or bad my technique was. So it was time to be honest.

I'd seen an advert from Rockover Climbing Wall, Ladies Night with coaching from Suzan Dudink. For obvious reasons I didn't pay too much attention but then shortly after, a new advert appeared offering the coaching to anyone, male or female and for a fantastic price! The coaching would be 4 sessions of 1.5 hours per session and in groups of a maximum of 8. I booked on the Tuesday and 2 days later I was at the wall and ready for my first session.

On arrival I was told that I was the only one to have booked on the course, so tonight would be a one to one session! Fantastic was my first reaction of course, one to one coaching with one of the best climbing coaches around, what's not to love?! Then it dawned on me that I would be the only one climbing.....for one and a half hours......solid, no coffee breaks, no standing around looking cool......just me, climbing.......gulp!

I was introduced to Suzan and right away I was on the traverse wall doing my stuff. Not very good stuff as it happens! "ok now do it again but this time no stepping through" came the shout from Suzan. So I did. then she started coaching......."try not to hop when swapping feet, try rolling one foot over slightly and placing the other next to it", " make sure you position your body over the foothold properly before reaching for the handhold", "hips into the wall", "climb with your whole body not just your arms".

And so it went. It was onto the wall proper next and into the problems. Every move I made I had to think about my body position first. If I moved my arms too soon I was told to come back down and do it again. Work out the problem, climb it til I climbed it properly then move on to the next. As I said earlier, the session lasted 1.5 hours......it felt like 5mins, the time just flew!

It was I believe, the most productive 1.5 hours climbing I will ever have. I won't go into the mechanics of the training here, I'm not qualified and anyway, I think this is something you should discover for yourselves to be fair. But I will say it has been kind of a eureka moment for me. At the end of the session I was shattered! Out of breath, sweating and my core ached. My arms on the other hand felt absolutely fine, like they hadn't done a thing in fact. And that was the eureka moment because they hadn't done anything, not really, my feet and body had done the work!

just to prove I was trying really really hard!



Skiddaw 13/02/16

I finally got some free time that happened to coincide with a decent spell of weather and I definitely wasn't going to waste it!

I headed up to The Lakes, just myself and Lester, specifically to Keswick where I intended to tackle the great Skiddaw. The much maligned Skiddaw in fact......I'd seen comments by Wainwright baggers along the lines of "it's just a big slog", "a long boring trek" but having never done this fell, I decided to give it a try anyway. In fact, despite the disparaging comments from others, it is in The Best of Wainwright guide, so it was about time to find out for myself just what this old beast had to offer!

A beast it certainly is! At over 3000ft, it is the 3rd highest fell in England behind Scafell and Helvellyn and with snow probable above 2500ft, it would take a bit of effort to summit.

I parked near the swimming pool in Keswick and then we made our way across the footbridge over the A66 and into Latrigg woods. The path is good here and the rise is steady and a nice warm up for the legs and what's to come. For the Wainwright devotees, there is the chance to also bag Latrigg Fell oln this walk as the path skirts its western shoulder. The path continues to rise out of the woods and to the Gale Road car park where it takes a sharp 'left' turn.

There is a moving memorial here to 3 shepherds of Lonscale, all of the same family, The Hawells, the epitaph is beautiful, I won't spoil it, go see for yourselves!

The path starts to steepen now and the terrain a little more rugged and open to the elements. It never gets really steep though, just enough to let your thighs know they are working!

Lonscale Fell and Sale How are just to the right of this path and can also be bagged for Wainwrighters with just a short detour, the path skirting their western shoulders.

It is at this point that first 'false' summits home into view. Little Man, at 865m is no small feat in and of itself, but on reaching its summit, it can be a little disheartening to the unsuspecting, upon realising Skiddaw summit is still some way off!

It is however in sight from here and this sight serves to push you forward, up the steeper ground and onto the final ridge across to the summit proper. We hit snow just above Little Man and I was hoping to use my new crampons and axe for the first time but alas the snow was a little too soft and boots were more than adequate.

So, my verdict, are the Wainwright devotees correct or is there something they are missing? Well, as Wainwright himself said, Skiddaw is never a climb at any point, just a big walk. He also stated that the route is perfect in poor visibility and even at night as the paths are so well defined and, well, safe. So yes, if it's excitement you are after, then there are plenty of other options to go at up here. But, if it's a good walk, decent exercise on a big fell, with fantastic views across Derwent Water to Causey Pike and the Derwent Fells and Eastwards towards Blencathra, then do not overlook this fell, you'll be missing out!

In terms of my own personal achievement, I was really happy with the day. Yes I took my time (about 6 hours up and down) and plenty of folk passed me on their way up. I had to stop and get my breath a few times up the steeper sections, but only for a few seconds at a time.......walk 50 yards, stop for a few seconds, walk 50 yards etc but the thing is, I made it, I got up it!
Since I started this thing back in September, this was my first real mountain, 3000ft plus. This was 10 miles of strenuous walking and there is no way I'd have made it to the top back then! So I'm definitely happy with my progress when I look at it objectively. Yes of course I'd like to be able to march non stop to the summit. Yes I'd like to be able to do 12/16 mile rounds camp overnight and do the same next day, but I can't, not yet anyway. I have learnt that I need more hill work in my day to day training. Steady inclines and flat walking I can go all day but it's the anaerobic bursts on the steeper sections which really tear my thighs and glutes apart! So training wise, I'll be looking at incorporating more hill work from now on.........and looking forward to a return to Skiddaw in the summer to track my progress!

Training and Goals 2016!

These past few weeks, I've been unable to venture out much due to that thing called 'life' getting in the way! So, it has meant that a few sessions at the wall have been all I was able to manage. On the positive side, it's also meant I can have a serious and objective look at my climbing progress, or lack of it as the case may be.

I climbed yesterday as it happens and in fact it is that particular session that has prompted to me to re evaluate a few things, including being honest with myself, and to write this piece.

The session itself was fine, don't get me wrong. We went to MCC. I warmed up and then whilst waiting for my partners to arrive, managed to flash 4 out of 4 of the new boulder comp problems (grades unknown it has to be said!). My friends arrived and we began with a 5+ and a 6a both fairly straight forward. We then moved on to a longer 6a+ which I climbed badly, missing a good foothold, getting my limbs out of sync on the final sequence and generally making the thing a lot harder than it should've been! I then tried another 6a+ on the same wall and failed on it about 2 moves from the top. I'm not sure what the problem was?! I need to go back to it, I couldn't seem to figure it out, or maybe, as with the last climb, I'd missed a hold! It was then onto a 6a+/B which I did pretty comfortably, the crux being the final move, really dynamic pull from an undercut/rh side pull to a high but decent lh jug......a nice route and fair at the grade! Last but one route I managed but with a struggle. We had a debate as to whether a hold on a side wall was part of this route. I decided it probably was, wrongly! I got myself into all sorts of contortions trying to get on this hold and throwing myself out for the rest of the route. Another I'll go back and try with a bit more style, the 2 tuffas being very enjoyable. Final route of the day was a 6b. I got one move from the top first go but managed it clean and comfortably second go, a foot swap being the crucial move I'd missed first time.

So, what did I learn? There are plenty of positives for me to take away from my current climbing standard and ability, but there are also some 'wake up calls' to either accept or address. Indeed, the biggest single thing I've discovered recently, is that I'm at a bit of a crossroads!

I started to climb seriously again about 18 months ago. Seriously meaning getting out climbing once a week and hitting the wall in between. As previously documented, a lot of my focus has had to be on the 'mental' side of climbing, the head games. But in terms of physical performance, I'm an advocate of 'the best training for climbing is climbing', particularly when new to the sport or just getting back into it like myself.

My focus has been on technique, on movement, on re educating my body to move in the correct way and letting things happen naturally, not forcing movement. The strength side of things I've let happen naturally, getting stronger whilst actually climbing and not specifically concentrating on getting stronger. Sure, I've tried to structure my 'training' to a certain extent (for instance, I do target specific work on things like endurance and stamina), but really, it's been a case of climb and see where that takes me.

It's taken me quite far to be fair. From struggling on anything above 5+ I'm now at 6B+, that's a 4 grade improvement right there! So my plan, as it goes, has worked, the results speaking for themselves. As a little aside, since beginning writing this piece, I've had a solo visit to The Depot bouldering centre. Having cruised the blacks (V2 - V4) and most of the reds (V3 - V5) when it first opened, they had reset them over the last few weeks.......and I've found them hard, or at least some of them. A couple of reds and blacks had caused me problems, one red in particular! A balancey little slab number, with lots of body turning, rockovers etc. I just couldn't seem to get the last but one hold! On my latest visit, I managed them, all of them!

So what's the problem you may ask? Well, the crossroads I've reached is this, I've reached my limit or at least I'm very close to it. I think that doing what I'm doing now, any improvements will be small if at all. I suspect in fact that I'll just stay exactly where I am.

So, I need to decide what I want from this. My original goal of course (and this still stands) was to become a steady VS trad leader in order to qualify for the MIA and MLA awards I'm aiming for. The indoor climbing and bouldering was just a means to an end and not a goal in and of itself. This has been fine up until this point. I've never been bothered about grade pushing, my days of becoming the best climber in the world are way way past! But, I'm really enjoying my climbing right now, not for any other reason than I'm just loving the movement, the exercise and topping out on a problem or route I've struggled on, for the first time, is just a fantastic feeling!

So now I have a decision to make, to maintain my current level, which I know is good enough for my VS trad goal, or to push on and see just how far up the grades I can go?!

In actual fact, my decision has been made, I want to see how hard I can climb, but to do this, I realise I will have to up my training game!

Just climbing isn't enough, that much is clear. So this week, I've decided to put together a kind of training plan. I've read up on training a lot recently, in fact anything training related, I've been gobbling up like a greedy monster.......and what I've discovered is that there is a myriad of information out there, it's actually a minefield of an area! One thing that does shine through though, one theme that runs through every piece of training advice out there and that is dedication! Putting a plan together and sticking to it, not being disheartened, not being put off, not arriving at the wall and just doing problems but actually being disciplined enough to ignore the shiny new routes just put up and stick to the programme, that is the key!

This week I started on the following programme:

Weeks 1-4: 2 sessions of strength and power, 2 sessions of stamina endurance and one climbing day per week. The power sessions will involve finger and campus board work, something I've only ever kind of dabbled with up until now. I'll be working on dead hangs and the like using various 'grips' (full crimp, half crimp etc). Initially, I'll be doing 5 second hangs with 5 second rests between and I'll do 10 of these to make a 'set'. At the end of the set, I'll rest for 10 mins and then repeat a total of 4 times. On the campus board I'll be doing simple 'ladders' initially, starting with just one rung movements, up and down again. I'll aim to do this 3 times with a 2 minute rest between, that being one set and I'll aim to do 4 sets.

For the endurance training, I'll be doing circuits and 'laps'. The 6a circuit at The Depot is perfect for this. I'll work the circuit as many times as I can, literally climbing until my fingers uncurl. Then I'll rest for 15 mins minimum and repeat, again the aim being to do 4 sets. I'll vary this by working through problems that are well within my capabilities ( 2 grades below my onsight level), climbing both up and down again in quick succession, no rest inbetween. This will be one set, again 4 being the aim with a 15 min rest between sets. You'll notice my training will be mainly at a bouldering venue. I'd love to train on roped climbing, particularly for endurance, but I fear it will be difficult to find a willing partner! My climbing buddies also have agendas and lives and therefore tend to 'make the most' of their climbing time by just actually climbing. I get this, it's not a problem, I will work round it and hopefully find someone like minded in the future (in fact feel free to message me if this is something you are interested in too!). What I will do in the meantime is do laps on the auto belay routes.

In subsequent weeks, my aim will be to up the intensity, increasing reps/sets as applicable, maybe even introducing a weight belt of some sort. What I won't be able to do is increase my visits to the wall, time will remain limited by life, that's just how it is.

I will of course be tracking my progress so watch this space!

Goals for 2016: Pre Xmas, I set myself a number of goals for 2016, all of which still stand and these are as follows:

Lead 20 routes at VS Trad

Lead 5 routes at HVS trad

Lead 1 route at E1 Trad

Climb sport/indoor 7a

Boulder to V6

I'm really hoping my training programme will see me re evaluating these goals upwards, wish me luck!

Walk Walk Walk

Let's not mention climbing on account of the fact there hasn't been any, not really. We have now had pretty much 2 months of  solid rain, it's incessant and really quite depressing now. Some of my favourite areas for walking/climbing have been severely hit by flooding, Cumbria in particular has taken a real hammering. The fallout from this continues as folk stay away from the area, businesses hit by the floods and who desperately need business, aren't getting any, so please visit the area and make sure you spend a few quid if you can. It still shows no sign of letting up either! Here I am, 09/01/20126, typing this whilst the rain pours down outside. Like I said, incessant!

Anyway, enough on the weather, it is what it is......rain? that's why I have waterproofs!

So, determined not to go stir crazy and in need of fresh air, it has been a case of getting out and about for walks, although choosing something/somewhere suitable has been difficult for a number of reasons.

The first difficulty has been access! Many of the routes up in The Lakes have been cut off, road closures due to flooding. So actually getting anywhere has been a major issue. The second has been choosing the right fells for my current fitness level and ability. Shorter days in Winter, plus a lack of equipment (I currently do not have crampons or ice axe) means I have to avoid the bigger stuff, particularly those with ridges (Blencathra, Helvellyn), albeit reluctantly! Fitness wise, I'm just not confident just now, that I'll get a 3,000ft or above fell done in daylight.

So, my 3 forays into the hills have gone like this:

Gordale Scar, Malham Tarn and Malham Cove - the floods in The Lakes and across Snowdonia forced me to look elsewhere for some outdoor time. To be fair, The Yorkshire Dales is hardly a poor second. Indeed, if there were more decent fells in Th'Dales, I'd visit more often.
I've done this walk many times before but it was a new location for my partner for the day, Nathan. Like myself, he's a climber first and foremost and had never seen Malham Cove! He was in for a treat.

We parked in Malham itself and walked through the village, up and over the hill and down towards Janets Foss. The Foss is only a few yards from the road and is well worth a detour for a few moments. A superb waterfall and plunge pool, hidden in its own secret wood! From here, we leave the road and cross the camp site towards Gordale Scar. The scar is a deep cleft in the hillside, exposed limestone cliffs, towering either side. Deep into the scar, and blocking the way, a limestone face, resplendent with its own waterfall, stands guard over the way ahead......thou shall not pass! In reality, the scramble up the 20ft face is not too taxing, although care is needed, it is still climbing and the stone is polished and very slippy when wet. I was looking forward to it! However, that was short lived as I saw that what is normally a gentle stream meandering through the camp site field, had turned into a mini river, in full flow, and complete with its own flood plain! In 30 years of coming here, I'd never seen it like this.

We reached the scar itself and I pointed out some of the lines up the buttresses either side, the bolts looking like they'd not seen action since summer.....aah summer! We ventured further inside and the sound of the waterfall was clearly heard, this was no babbling brook anymore, that much was clear. Our first glimpse took my breath away. Nathan, having never seen the place before of course had no point of reference. But I'd been here a lot and seeing that waterfall, hurtling over the limestone edge, the force sending spray right across the full width of the gorge, well, it was quite something. It also meant we wouldn't be going that way!

The Guardian of the Scar was correct, we did not pass, we did however go round. Leading into the scar, before the limestone buttresses appear, either side of this mini valley, are steep grass and scree slopes. We decided to ascend the right hand slopes, about a 400ft ascent, a short sprint. Except the slope was around 60deg maybe more, and soaking wet too. I actually found the climb easier than expected though and was secretly delighted. Nathan, being half my age of course sprinted up but I took it steady, even having to 'cut steps' snow style in places. It felt great! I could feel the thigh burn but to my amazement, it felt ok, it wasn't killing me! I reached the summit plateau and joined Nathan with a real sense of achievement.......well, not so much achievement as a sense of progress. For the first time in years, I actually felt fit! Well, fitter at any rate.

The running, getting out into the hills, climbing, it's all starting to pay off and it's a great feeling!

The walk after reaching the plateau was fairly uneventful really. It's a straightforward walk, good paths and the 'stream' from Malham Tarn to the scar is as good a handrail as you'll get anyway should you wander off the beaten track.

We made good time and were soon approaching Malham Cove across it's limestone pavement cap. It doesn't matter how many time I visit this place, that view, down the valley to Malham village and beyond is simply stunning!

I pointed out some of the routes on the upper tier for Nathan, he was surprised there are trad routes here, believing it was all sport climbing, before we made our way down into the cove itself. I was more than a little disappointed if I'm honest, that the waterfall over the cove had now ceased ( a wonder not seen in 300 years and I'd missed it!).

Nathan had a wander about the cove while I sat drinking coffee, he contemplating lines for the summer no doubt, while I contemplated a pint in the local hostelry......ah the under exuberance of age!

I got my pint, Nathan made his mental notes for lines to go at and we returned to the car. A satisfying day......especially fitness wise!

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South Lakes - I met up with Sharon in the village of Witherslack, South Lakes, with the intention of tackling a walk that she knew well but that I'd never done. The walk would take us up onto the top of Chapel Head Scar, a magnificent limestone outcrop visible from the A591, before looping round along the escarpment and back down into the village.

This was a lovely walk and for a real treat, the weather, bucking the trend for the past 2 months, was dry and bright!

Although short, the walk up to the 'summit' as it were, is steep, but follows a well trodden path through woods before emerging onto the limestone plateau. Fitness wise I felt great and having reached the plateau, I felt I could have easily gone on and done the same climb again! This was a real 'eureka' moment again, things are paying off, stuff is actually working!

The rest of the walk was just really really nice and we even had time for a little 'bouldering' on a mini limestone outcrop along the escarpment, me doing the FA's of a traverse and a floor to top problem.......well, FA's that day anyway! All good fun!

We had a laugh, mainly at Sharon stepping not once but 3 times into  puddles whose depths were misjudged and ankle deep turned into knee deep.....well I thought it was funny anyway!

On our way back into the village we passed a 'hikers rest'. I love these things. Tea and coffee making facilities, all laid on with just an honesty box, brilliant! I didn't need a brew having my trusty flask with me but still donated a few quid anyway and happily done!

Catbells and Maiden Moor - finally able to access a 'proper fell', I headed up to Keswick with Nathan again this time, looking forward to ticking off another Wainwright or 2, neither of which I'd done before. At about 1500ft of climbing, this is again a 'tiddler' but would be a good indication again of my fitness levels.

I loved this walk for many reasons! Physically, it's a tough climb, the 1500ft being done over a short distance which means it is steep and with little pockets of scrambling too, although these can be as exciting as you want with complete avoidance available if necessary. We reached the ubiquitous Lakeland fell 'false summit' in good time and stopped for a quick breather before pushing on and reaching the summit proper not long after. The 'tourist' walk takes a descent from here but we decided to push onto Maiden Moor aswell......I'd also spotted a possible descent that would be a little more exciting for us!

Hause Gate is a gully and scree slope, dotted with outcrops too and just the odd sheep track here and there to guide the way. We made our way carefully to the top of one such outcrop to scout ahead for a possible descent and we decided it was doable. We spotted a kind of track that traversed the steep fell side and into the gully itself and so made our way across it. The gully descent was quite treacherous in places and so as soon as we spotted a suitable place, we again traversed out and onto the scree. It was great fun and a perfect exciting end to the walk.

Just a note on Border Collies and the loyalty of dogs.......my best mate Lester, when out walking with me, likes to wander off and do his own thing but I noticed something on 2 of the walks I did recently including this one. On the gordale scar walk, as we ascended the steep slopes, he barely left my side and if I stopped for a breather, he came and stood by me and wouldn't move until I did. It was the same on this descent, he stayed by my side virtually the whole time. I swear it was as if he knew it was dangerous and he wanted to make sure I was ok! I love that dog to bits :)

So that has been me over Christmas. Climbing wise, nothing of note to report really, it's all been indoors. That said, the new bouldering wall opened in Manchester, 'The Depot'. What a fantastic venue and I've been lucky to get down there a few times, crushing everything of course! Managed a couple of roped sessions at MCC and Awesome Walls too and I seem to be pretty steady now at 6B/6B+ . I was really pleased with an os flash of a 'features' only 6B+ at AW......lots of laybacky balancey moves......I'm climbing well, feeling fit and looking forward to the challenges of 2016, bring it on!