2 old men meet for the first time

I headed up to The Lakes this weekend. The forecast was at best uncertain....heavy rain possibly, strong winds possibly, snow possibly.......so I kept my options open and with a view to having to change plans if necessary.

So this old man decided to meet another far more famous old man for the first time..... Coniston Old Man via Goat Crag and then onto Dow etc and descent via Walna Scar Road back to Coniston itself.

I arrived in Coniston at about 9.30am and quickly realised I'd need to change my plans. The snow had started to fall and with no crampons or ice axe, scrambling up Goat Crag was not an option! So I decided to take the main path up out of Coniston and passed the copper mines.

Lower down the valley the snow wasn't sticking, but as I got past the old mining bridge, it really began to take hold. The path was still quite well defined but visibility in any direction was becoming less and less the higher I climbed. Underfoot, the ground was now becoming quite treacherous and I knew the descent was going to be tricky, one slip, one turn of the ankle and I was in trouble.

I met very few folk out on the hills (3 other walkers in a group coming down having been defeated and not reaching the summit and one other loan walker who I ended up walking part of the way with and enjoyed the company for a short while. A faster walker than me though, he left me at a rest point not far from the east ridge and that was the last I saw of him. I contemplated retiring at this point. I was finding it hard going (that stamina thing again!) but was also more than a little worried about my car being stuck and not being able to get home which I needed to do!

I decided to press on though. I am nothing if not determined and I generally don't let things beat me without a bloody good fight. To be fair, it was indeed a bloody good fight, The Old Man gave me a right battering! The east ridge was a struggle, hands and knees in places but I managed to reach the top only to see, well, nothing! It was just white, everywhere!

 

 

 

 

I couldn't see the summit cairn and decided it wasn't worth seeking out. The winds were picking up and total white out conditions were a very real possibility and so I retreated back down the east ridge to the main path and traced my steps back down the way I'd ascended and into Coniston again.

On the descent I passed one loan walker on his way up although he said to me he'd already decided he would stop at the east ridge and then come back down. I also met a young couple who asked me for directions. They were to put it mildly, not really dressed for the conditions (she had on a skirt and tights......full make up though so that's ok!!). I tried to convince them to forget it and join me in the pub but they were having none of it. I seriously doubt they'd have made it much further on but I do hope they were ok and also that MR weren't called out because of them!

On returning home (having stopped in at The Ship Inn for hot soup and a pint of course!), I got chatting on line to a couple of guys who'd also ventured out (there weren't many of us!). Both had almost gotten into difficulty. The first had experienced total white out on the very same mountain I was on. He'd had to use his compass to take a bearing or two for the first time in 20 years! The second had ventured into Glencoe. He gave the wrong location to friends and family but didn't realise until he, thankfully, made it safely back to his car! Lessons to be learnt here and it made me realise that actually, I kind of know what I'm doing up here!

I'm getting fitter too! I found it hard going, I really did.......but this time last year, I'm not sure I'd have made it even half way up.......The Old Man and The Old Man got on just fine!

When it's raining try training

Having had a pretty fantastic Summer in terms of climbing weather, pretty much the whole of November and now well into December, has been a washout, and I mean literally! Weather and resulting phenomenon like a waterfall at Malham Cove (not seen in 300 years), devastation across Cumbria, widespread floods, at one point I was thinking of digging out my 'The End is Nigh' billboard! It hasn't even been walking weather. 80 mph winds rendering days in the mountains, at best, treacherous! MRT's are busy enough dealing with the floods to be bothering rescuing some idiot venturing into the mountains on days like these!

So, apart from watch with helplessness the unfolding carnage across Cumbria (there is a just giving page so please donate and help families and businesses left stricken!), I've been left with one option, hit the wall!

I'm not good with training, for a couple of reasons. The first is, I'm in inherently lazy. The second is, I get bored easily. Throw those together and basically you have a recipe for a climber who will never improve!

I know this and so I have to work really hard on things like motivation and being able to keep myself interested and focused. Just in life in general, I need lists, reminders, constant prompts to get things done. I need challenging, constantly, I need goals, and that way I can maintain my interest. In a nutshell, if I have chores to do around the house, I hate doing the chores but I love ticking them off a list when they are completed. That sense of achievement, no matter how small, is what keeps my mind engaged and my motivation focused. It's not enough for me to say "do the dishes because then you will have clean dishes". My rational mind will immediately say "well you could buy new dishes". However, saying "do the dishes and that's one ticked off your list", that motivates me, it's a challenge and I like challenges.

So, what works for me training wise, if anything? Well, there is a whole internet worth of material out there on training, training programmes, theories, it is a subject that far more qualified people than myself, have written about in great detail so I don't intend to do that here. This is simply my own take on things, my 'training plan' and it's results.

My first step was to set goals then! What do I want to achieve? I believe this is crucial. Set your goals too unrealistically high and the resulting constant failure can act as a demotivator, but set them too low and the risk of boredom setting in rises dramatically!

Last winter was my first foray into the world of indoor climbing for some time. Yes I'd been on an indoor wall here and there, but to call that 'training' would have been to use the term loosely, very loosely! I started to regularly visit a number of walls but mainly hopped between Manchester Climbing Centre and Rockover Bouldering, also in Manchester. At this point I had 2 simple goals.....to get fitter and braver! That was it, simple goal setting.

I've always been quite strong and able to do quite powerful moves, but my stamina (at this point I had none!) always lets me down. So I could string a couple of hard moves together but that would be it......"Take!" I was also very fearful at times and so I would feel the pump coming on, start to overgrip, sweaty hands would set in, as would panic, and that would be the end of that.

So this was where I was last year, struggling to lead 5+, what difference has a year made?

In a nutshell, last week I lead my first 6b+, and in fact flashed it apart from the very last move where the hold colours confused the hell out of me ( why do walls group routes with similar coloured holds together!!). I now class 6a as a warm up. In terms of my fear, I couldn't be happier about how this is going. There is a double overhang at MCC which I'd only ever got to the lip of the 2nd, never actually being able to top out. I did this recently too with no problem. I also got to one move off the top of a 6a+ on the main wall (I bailed not because I was scared but again because I couldn't see the last bloody hold!).

How have I got here? By training and working on where I'm weak. Mental training, concentrating on breathing and staying in control, forcing the fear to the back of my mind. Stamina wise, if I'm bouldering on my own at Rockover, I will do laps on the traverse wall to warm up. I then pick 4 problems around V3/4 which I know I do fairly comfortably and I climb them in succession, no rest inbetween. I then  rest for about the same time it took me to climb them, then repeat. I try to do this 3 times. I then work for 20 minutes or so on something hard before warming down on the traverse wall again. If I'm at MCC then I'll jump on the auto belays and climb everything on that line that I know is within my capabilities, again no rests, then move onto the next auto belay and so on. I'll then finish by working on something harder before a warm down.

It's working for me! My technique, strength, fitness and being able to manage the fear, have all come on in leaps and bounds! My goal this winter is to emerge from my 'cave' ready for the climbing season start in Spring, having lead a 7a! Watch this space!

Mission Aborted

In the interests of maintaining balance here and just to show that things don't always go to plan, my latest foray into th'ills, went something like this.

The original plan (and yes, there is a cautionary tale about sticking to your original plan!) was for a walk, more specifically, Catbells and Maiden Moor in the North Western Lake District Fells. The weather has been grim for the best part of a month, barely a dry spell in amongst seemingly endless rain. So a walk seemed like the sensible option, I couldn't think of a single spot that might be dry enough to climb.

Then something happened. A cursory check of the weather forecast and there they were, 2 days of brilliant sunshine, a whole weekend! A quick consult with my partner for the day and we agreed, sun after all this rain was just too good an opportunity to pass up, we had to climb.

So Catbells was put on the back burner and a plan B was quickly drawn up, we'd head across to Wilton, this decision being helped by another climber buddy announcing a party were headed that way and they'd see us there.

I picked Nathan up and we were in good spirits, the thought that this might not be the best plan, never entering our heads, this despite the snow covered tops in the distance.

We parked at the Wilton 3 car park and trudged up the hill towards the quarry, the fresh snow crunching underfoot. Although, late morning by now, the winter sun was very low. Would any of the crag be in sunlight?

 

 

No was the answer, well, apart from a small section away from the main crag, which contains a handful of good bouldering problems but nothing more. The rock was dry though in quite a few places and when the wind dropped, standing in the sunshine, it felt quite pleasant. But the wind didn't drop that often and the crag was swathed in shadow, occasional glints of sunlight here and there bringing thoughts of what might have been.

Undaunted however, Nathan chose a particularly dark corner of the quarry and a HVD to start. Damn it was cold gearing up, Nathan racking up between bouts of blowing into cupped hands. I didn't even take my gloves off!

He set off, got 5 or so feet off the ground, placed some gear, moved up, looked for some more gear, which was difficult, what with the icicles in the way! I got the sense that even Nathan, who is probably even more enthusiastic about climbing than I am, was starting to doubt that this was a good plan! I suggested we abort and try and find sunnier spots.......I think Nathan was down climbing even before I'd finished the sentence!

As we were packing the gear away, our friends from LCCC arrived and were setting up base camp in the only sunlit spot in the quarry. We wandered over for a chat. They were bouldering only, maybe moving to Wilton 2 later. I suggested Brownstones to Nathan, a bouldering only venue about a mile down the road, surely there'd be a bit of sun there?!

No, is the answer! The path leading to this miniature gem of a quarry, was flooded, seriously flooded! We had to scramble up the bank, through the brambles, just to navigate a way around what was a path but was now a pond!

On finally arriving at the first section of quarry, ironically named 'The Pond Area', well, judge for yourselves what our reaction might have been!

The whole area was underwater! There IS a pond here, but it was now buried under this lake!

There was one last option, at the far end of the quarry and we headed over there but by then, we were pretty much downhearted and defeated. My mind was already wondering at what might have been if we'd stuck to our original plan of Catbells.

And so we aborted for the second time that day, cold and beaten, we retreated back to the car and headed home.

So the first snow on the hills......and I spend the day searching for climbs in a dark damp Lancashire Quarry..... bloody marvellous!

Helm Crag

Today I decided to push myself again and try my first 'proper fell' for some years! In fact, the fell I chose was actually the last fell I'd walked previously and I reckoned it to be about 5 or 6 years ago.

I had 2 companions for the day ( well 3 if you include Lester of course!), my son Joe who is in training for his D of E award and Nathan, a keen rock climber looking to get more 'mountain experience'.

We parked in the main car park in Grasmere and Nathan, who had only visited The Lakes once previously, immediately fell in love with the place. It's the olde worlde charm of the Lakeland towns and villages that gets people, like a glimpse into a far simpler bygone era. For more regular visitors like myself (or maybe it's just me!), the tacky shops selling 'backpacking gear' at 'bargain prices' and 'I love the Lakes' memorabilia, all made in China of course, have ruined villages like Grasmere. Windermere is even worse, a place I avoid like the plague.......The Blackpool of the Lakes!

Walking through Grasmere to the start proper of the walk gives a nice gentle introduction and provides a 'warm up' for the real walking to come. The tacky shops aside, the village is stunning! If you can see past the rows of Regatta waterproofs, past the 'All I got was this Lousy t shirt' displays, then Grasmere is a real treat! Lakeland stone walled houses and Westmorland Slate roofs blend effortlessly into the surrounding countryside in stark contrast to the shop wares, which do not!

The road leads through the village and on towards Easedale Tarn but then the path takes a sharp right, into the woods and the fell proper.

This section of the walk, through the woods of Kitty Crag, past the ruins of a once walled garden complete with man made ponds is very pleasant indeed, gentle and with a well formed and marked path.

 

 

But don't let this lull you too much into a relaxed state! Although only 1329 ft in height, the ascent to the summit of Helm Crag, is done over a short distance, 1.5 miles. It is therefore steep and soon gets the thigh muscles burning!

 

The walk soon breaks out onto the open fell above the tree line and with Lancrigg Crag on the right and Jackdaw Crag to the left, it strikes a path between the 2 before turning east above Jackdaw and then meandering up past White Crag, Raven Crag and on to the summit.

 

 

 

Be sure to take in the views on your way up, they are simply stunning! to the west, Easedale Tarn and Sour Milk Gill in full Winter flow! Beyond and slightly southerly, the Langdale Pikes of Harrison Stickle, Pike of Stickle et al, rise imperiously from the valleys beneath them. To the south, the village of Grasmere and the vale down to the mere itself and then onto Rydal Water, get ever smaller as you near the summit.

 

the summit itself appears (or appears to appear!) just in time as burning thighs start to complain! The last section to the plateau is quite rocky and a little care is needed. But then there they are, the Lion and the Lamb, the two rock formations on the summit plateau that give the Fell it's nickname.

 

 

 

But they aren't the true summit! A short walk northwards along the summit plateau and we soon arrive at The Howitzer! An impressive leaning buttress of rock in the shape of a huge canon, about 20 ft from base to peak, lies between us and the actual summit.

 

 

Now of all the 214 Wainwright Fells in The Lakes, this was the only one Wainwright himself didn't summit on, his aversion to rock climbing on this last section of the route would defeat him sadly, for eternity. So on this particular rain soaked occasion, with the already polished rock now sodden and like glass, I'm not ashamed to say that this time round, I decided to join lofty company and give the summit a miss. One of our party, Nathan, did however make it to the top!

 

 

 

 

Just as we were preparing for our return descent of the fell, Nathan and Joe both experienced what will prove to be an invaluable lesson to them!

 

You can hear tales of bad weather experiences til you're blue in the face from other climbers and mountaineers, but until you've actually experienced something for yourself, it never really sinks in.

 

Within literally seconds, a summit which was clear, with views for miles around, became engulfed in cloud and visibility was down to yards! We didn't see this coming, there was no warning, it was clear one second and then it wasn't! Being aware of the conditions, logging your position regularly, being aware of exactly where you are, where you are heading, where potential dangers are, are all essential skills in the hills, for exactly this kind of event. I would like to think that both Joe and Nathan, if they weren't before, are fully aware of this now and will take this with them whenever they venture into the hills themselves.

 

 

Knowing the fell, we found and followed the descent path easily enough though, despite the weathers best efforts at preventing us and were soon once again below the cloud level and with full visibility.

 

We made good time on the descent, despite the glass like surface of the soaked stone slabs, and were back at the car in no time, soaked, a little tired, but safe and exhilarated! Another excellent day in the fells.

 

 



Keep Going

A weather forecast which meant either climb indoors or don't climb at all saw me choosing the 3rd option for this weekend, a walk.

Whilst I've been getting 'climbing fit' over the summer, aerobically, my fitness levels are to be frank, quite shocking! So, I've known this day would come for some time and here it was, time to get the boots out, dust off the compass and map case and get out into the hills and explore.

I currently own the grand total of 2 ordnance survey maps, one for The Lakes and one for The Peak. The weather forecast for The Peak District was horrendous, the forecast for The Lakes was really really horrendous, so I chose The Peak and in particular, a summit called Shining Tor.

I planned the route beforehand, loosely ( I wanted to keep my options open and pretty much go where the path took me) and worked out that my proposed route would be about 6 miles long.

Now 6 miles is nothing for a mountain walk. My plan is to get up to double that and be able to do at least 2 consecutive days at that level. But for now, 6 miles on testing ground in serious conditions would at least give me a benchmark as to where I am in terms of both fitness and just how rusty my map and compass skills are.

I parked at Pym Chair car park and immediately set off in a southerly direction along the escarpment of Cats Tor with the views out towards the fertile fields and valleys of Cheshire to my right and the peaty barren uplands of the Peak on my left........although the view in either direction was pretty poor through the low cloud and drizzle.

I found the initial walking fairly steady. The ground is rising here towards the Tor but at a steady and manageable gradient. About half a mile from the Tor itself though, the ground gets a little steeper and I could feel the burn in my calves as I fought against the gradient and elements.

But summit we did, Lester and I and what a view we would have had if only for better weather!

From here, our path struck a south easterly direction towards Stake side and Goyt's Moss but on reaching the edge of Shooters Clough ( I love these names, conjuring up images of a hard but simple life in a bygone age!), turned sharply NE and down through the clough itself.

A 'clough' is a valley or ravine and the walk through this, with the wood on my right, the escarpment of the tor to my left and Errwood reservoir in front of me, was really very pleasant.

Before reaching the reservoir itself, my path turned again and I now began to head NW through the woods and now abandoned grounds of Errwood Hall. I think this place would be quite magical in the summer. Walking through the woods, you can still see signs of a former life. Derelict walls in what looks like it was once a walled garden. Stone steps leading off in different directions. I bet the grounds were beautiful back in its day but you know, in its now wild and unkempt state, I thought it was simply stunning anyway!

The path begins to steepen again here and after what was a very gentle stroll through the woods of Errwood, now became hard again. Rising up towards Foxlow Edge, we broke through the woods and back out into the open and the elements. The rain and wind were in our faces for this last hard section. We passed an old building. I've no idea what it is, the cross on top leading me to think it was some sort of old chapel, but tiny!

The path continues north easterly for a mile or so before hitting the road known as 'The Street' and this would take us the last half mile back to the car park.

I absolutely loved this walk for many reasons. I'd never done it before so everything I saw was new. I was happy with my navigation skills, maybe like riding a bike, you never forget! But mostly, I was really very pleased with my fitness levels, which, on evaluation, weren't as bad as first feared. It took me around 3 hours, with stops for photos etc let's say 2.5hours of walking, on rough terrain and in pretty bad weather so I hadn't done too badly. I have to keep pushing myself, even small successes, small improvements, make a difference. There were times on this walk when my legs were complaining, especially my calves. But I'd take it to the point where it was really starting to burn and then pick a spot in the distance to aim for as a rest point. The idea being to push myself to the pain barrier, and then to keep going!

I'm looking forward to bigger and better things to come. It will not be long before I'm in amongst true mountains. This weekend I will be in The Lakes with my son (the 2 legged one Joe although Lester will be coming too!) doing Helm Crag. This will be our first proper fell walk together! My fitness levels and confidence will soon improve and then it's Blencathra and Sharp Edge, Scafell, Helvellyn and Striding Edge, The Langdale Pikes et al!

Froggatt and Troy

A dry and windless day in late October was just too good an opportunity to miss and so on Sunday, it was off to Froggatt Edge with Sam and Lester of course......have I mentioned my crag dog? Loved by all, I've bumped into folk on crags who recognise Lester 'oh look there's Lester'.....me, not a second glance!......Jealous much?! Anyway, I digress and he gets enough attention at the crag anyway!

We decided on Froggatt a place I hadn't been to in 25 years or more and Sam had never visited so one way or another we were in for something different. Very quickly I decided that if nothing else, it was worth the visit, just to highlight to me how aerobically unfit I am! I really need to get my legs motoring more often because I have to confess, I found the walk up to the crag, bloody hard work! But we got there and I managed to avoid a massive coronary too.

Sam was to lead the first route, a severe 4a called Sickle Buttress, an interesting looking route with a bit of variety. A tricky finger crack leads to sloping ledges leading out right. There is a choice here, to smear on the slopers to a semi mantle onto a good ledge below the final groove or climb a move or 2 higher to a good flake and arguably better footholds and then make a traverse out right to the same ledge. As we geared up I was again amazed at how busy the place was, seriously, it was like somebody had just opened the gates. People seemed to emerge from the footpath at the foot of the crag, one after another for what seemed like ages. Pretty soon, folk were queuing for routes. Sam had barely gotten off the ground when 2 chaps parked themselves next to us announcing they were looking to do the route after us. Now Sam is like me in respect of not really liking a crowd scene whilst climbing and in particular, an audience! I also don't think it's polite is it? I mean who needs that added pressure? No reason why people can't wait a bit of a distance away at the very least. Anyhow, I knew they would be bothering Sam and so politely told them they were welcome to wait but that we were likely to be some time and they might be better seeking out an alternative, which option they thankfully chose.

The damage had been done though. I could see Sam was struggling a bit. A new venue, unfamiliar territory and an audience and it was enough to have unsettled her. I'll say 1 thing here. In all the time I've climbed with Sam, I've only ever seen her back off one lead and that wasn't through not going for it, it was a tough VS 4c which she just couldn't do. So it was sad to see her unable to continue and I lowered her to the ground from gear. Knowing what was going through her mind, having been there many times, it's incredibly frustrating knowing there is nothing you can do except encourage and hope they manage to battle through it.

I finished off the lead and Sam followed no problem at all. This was all about the head and nothing to do with being able to do the route, on another day, she would walk that lead no problem!

 

The view from Sickle Buttress

 

 

We decided to move down the crag to try and find somewhere a bit quieter but pretty much every lower grade route with a star against it had queues of folk waiting to do them, it was like Alton Towers! We managed to find a V Diff called Solomons Crack. A broken blocky ramp leads fairly awkwardly to a decent ledge and then there is a final tricky corner. I thought it best to try and get Sam leading again as soon as possible, using the falling off the bike get straight back on mantra. It didn't work. Sam managed to get to the ledge above the ramp but she just wasn't in the right place for leading headwise and so she down climbed and I finished off the lead.

 

We discussed the possibility of another route but really, neither of us were that enthusiastic by now! The crag was busy and the sun was getting lower anyway and so we did what all good climbers must do from time to time.......we retired to the pub for a pint!

 

I had a good day! Being outside, in beautiful countryside with great company, ticks the boxes for me. I was more concerned that Sam hadn't enjoyed herself!

 

The next day, with 2 different partners, Sharon ( a regular participant in this blog and Nathan, another I've met through the LCC club). We chose to go to Troy Quarry. I'd been extolling the virtues of this magnificent place to anyone who would listen and both Sharon and Nathan were intrigued.

 

On arriving with Nathan (we met Sharon at the crag), I was worried that I'd over sold the place, would it live up to Nathans expectations. I needn't have worried!

 

We actually took the wrong path to the crag (out of a choice of 2!.....maybe guiding isn't for me then!) which led us to the top of the crag rather than it's base. What an entrance! A magnificent vista of the whole crag unfolded before us and I could see immediately Nathan was stunned......the jaw drop and speed the camera came out were the give aways!

 

 

taken by Nathan on our approach, fantastic photo, stunning view!

 

 

Sharon arrived about 2 minutes after we did and so we were soon eyeing up the first route. I'd led Left Siamese Twin on my previous visit and so when Nathan decided to go for Right Siamese Twin at the same grade (S 4a) I was happy to follow, well, when the opportunity arises to 'do' twins........

 

 

Nathan led it nicely and on seconding it, it proved to be a lovely route, not unlike Left but with a nicer top out, exposed but with good gear throughout. Sharon followed up too and having not been sure if she would climb or not today, she loved the route and we were soon contemplating the next!

 

Unfortunately, and slightly weirdly, an outdoor group arrived and began throwing top ropes down a load of stuff in the bay we were in. They then didn't climb much before pulling the ropes and heading off! Not really sure what it was all about but hey, they'd gone and we had this magnificent place to ourselves again.

 

I wasn't sure if I wanted to lead today having climbed the day before (in fact 4 out of 5 days climbing, at nearly 50, was taking its toll a tad!) but I spotted a little VS 4c called Little Sneak. A thin fingery crack, nice and steep leads to an overhang, a shuffle left to skirt this, a ledge and final short groove finished the route. This would be my first VS 4c lead for around 25 years.....if I managed it!

 

 

I set off up the crack expecting a bit of a battle but, and there's 2 schools of thought here, either I'm climbing much better than I think I am or the route wasn't 4c! I found it really nice, a little technical, couple of tricky moves leading to the OH but, in no time, I found myself on the ledge below the final groove. In the groove itself is a perfect slot for a micro wire......of which I had none! So having fumbled around for a bit, I placed the worst cam ever in a slot/pocket in the wall and topped out. I was extremely happy! This was a big milestone for me, a great leap forward and confirmation of how far I'd come this summer.......is it or isn't it 4c? Well the guide says 4c so who am I to argue!

 

 

 

The headless climber, above the crux and about to make the move onto the ledge on Little Sneak VS 4c

 

 

Sharon approaching the ledge on Little Sneak......the concentration!

 

 

 

Seconded by Nathan and followed also by Sharon we were all now warming to the occasion. So much so in fact that Miss 'I might not climb today', was now eyeing up a lead herself, as Nathan put it 'buoyed by the psyche of the little sneak'!

 

She chose One Way Street S 4a, a corner route with a nice crack section lower down but a rather loose looking top!

 

 

 

Sharon on One Way Street S 4a Nathan belaying......Lester the crag dog paying not a blind bit of notice







 

 

The 'money shot'.....Sharon topping out on One way Street

 

 

She cruised it in some style and was clearly loving the joys of Troy!

 

Nathan and myself followed, the top proving to be not as loose as it looked although some care was needed. And so it was down to choose the final route of the day. Nathan had his eye on about 4 routes and was like a kid in a sweet shop, spoilt for choice and wanting it all! He narrowed it down to 2 and then 1, the one being Rapunzle VS 5a. I was delighted he chose this. I'd seen the line on my first visit and what a perfectly named route! Another thin crack leads to 'the window' and there the maiden may or may not let down her hair. If she does you are in luck, but if she doesn't and you can't use her hair to climb, then you have a bit of a struggle to enter and leave said aperture!

 

As seems quite usual for this quarry, a short final crack/groove complete the route.

 

Nathan led it superbly and announced he'd made the right decision, the route was well worth it's 2 stars. I seconded the route and I agree, in fact a little longer and/or the crux being nearer the top and I think this would get 3 *'s its that good! A tricky crux, technical but nothing too taxing, a lovely climb. I did have to be taken on the rope to free both arms to remove a rather solid nut placement though!

 

 

 Nathan setting off up Rapunzle VS 5a

 

 

Just after the crux on Rapunzle

 

 

Sharon also followed and after one fall on the crux, managed it second go no problem and cruised to the top out.

 

So, it was happily and with 2 new Troy devotees added to the list, that we packed our gear and set off for home.



Solos, Downable Climbable and Beautiful Quarries

The weather was once again a climbers dream this weekend, I got to thinking how lucky we've been this summer and certainly in recent weeks. So 2 days full climbing it was again!

With my regular climbing buddies Sam and Sharon on Saturday and we opted for Windgather. I know we climb here a lot but do you know, I never tire of the place. Yes it's not very high or particularly difficult, it's just something about the serenity of the place, even when busy, which draws me back again and again.

I'd set myself goals though, it wasn't all about peacefulness and relaxation, I had work to do. I got there a little earlier than S and S and so decided to try my first 'solos' for many years. Regular readers of this blog will know the significance of this for me. I started on a diff crack and then traversed out onto an exposed arête to finish up a HVD, the exposure I knew would be the indicator as to where my 'climbing head' was at. It was all good, I climbed smoothly, taking my time, pausing at each move to find the best way, concentrating on feet and movement.

I moved onto a v diff crack, a little laybacking involved and so a bit more committing. Again I managed this confidently and topped out without drama. What I thought would be my final solo of the day (I saw that S and S had arrived), was crag classic diff called high buttress arête, so called because it is indeed on the crags highest buttress at a mighty 40ft! Ok, it's not huge by any stretch of the imagination......but with no rope and my head, it might well have been 1000ft. I led this at the start of summer and placed 3 maybe even 4 pieces of gear in the thing and now here I was about to do it ropeless. The first section is a nice crack up the side face, all good holds as you can imagine on a diff. About 10ft from the top, the route then moves left onto the front face of the buttress, nicely exposed and balancy. It felt just brilliant, climbing in control, I enjoyed every single move and that feeling of confidence, in ones own ability, on topping out, I had a smile on my face from ear to ear!

then the terrible twins arrived, my peace shattered as the banter began immediately and mostly at my expense! I love climbing with these 2. I love the social aspect as much if not more than the climbing. We have fun and as someone once said 'the best climber is the one who is having the most fun'!

Banter abated temporarily, as a warm up and to catch me up, S and S did the HVD I'd soloed earlier. I of course didn't make any remarks at all at the amount of gear being placed on a route I'd skipped up with no rope, that wouldn't be like me at all!

I should have kept my mouth shut! I set off up what I though was a severe 4a. Crack, overhang, crack, finish. I got to just below the overhang, placed some gear and reached over the top.......to find the hugest jug ever! I hopped over and topped out to exclaim how disappointing it was for a severe! I was then told, by S and S .......and 2 complete strangers, that they had tried to tell me before I set off, that the route wasn't in fact a severe but a moderate! Oh I got some stick for placing gear on a moderate, I don't think I'll ever live it down!

So as punishment, I had to lead the next route along, which was in fact the route I should have been on and was indeed a severe........which I then ended up soloing as I couldn't find any gear to place.......so basically, I'm now soloing severes and yet placing gear in moderates.....pretty much sums me up really!

Sam then led a severe also (see photos above), a really good lead having not climbed at all for a few weeks, in fact it was the last time we were here together. Then to finish off in that particular section of the crag S and S decided they would also do their first solo, the diff crack I'd done earlier. Both did it no problem, 3 of us, on our first solos, a good day!

Also at this point, we learned a new climbing term, the conversation going something like this.....Sharon, from the crag top "is this route easy enough to down climb?" Stranger in reply "yes it's downable climbable"........ 'downable climbable', if it wasn't a thing before, it is now!

Sharon then led a Severe aswell, Mississippi Crack. This is a lovely route, with a nice move or two through some overlaps and up a continuation crack. A little bit nervous before climbing having felt she'd found the route, well one move in particular, a bit tough and committing when climbing it before. This lead I think summed up nicely how well we have all come on over the summer, she led it really well. As good as she's climbed if you ask me.

My next lead was a HS 4b I'd never done before called The Medicine. This route is 35ft long.......and I managed to get lost! I actually think I did 3 different routes in 1 go which must count as some sort of record?! The route goes like this.......a short slabby wall leads to an overlap, a steep pull and semi mantle and you're established on the top wall and then the top. Only, in making the pull over the overlap, I somehow managed to follow 'a natural line' diagonally right, ending up on a ledge belonging to a whole other route! I honestly have no idea how this happened.....but it did cause much mirth amongst my 2 climbing companions who thought it hilarious.......so hilarious in fact that one of the 2 decided to take a whole series of photos cataloguing the event........

 

And so, thinking that maybe as the last route of the day was to come, and it wouldn't be my lead, there surely would be no more dramas, would there?

 

It was either Sam or Sharons lead next but having discussed it, they both wanted to do Green Slab again, HS 4b.........although neither fancied leading it this time.......next time though! I'd led this a couple of weeks before having backed off it before that. With only one piece of gear at the crux and nothing above, although easy, the climbing is quite committing. I set off on the lead, placed the gear, and began the crux move, only to hear that dreaded sound, half way through the move, of my gear lifting out! I could feel my head starting it's alarm bell sequence, slight panic beginning to rise. Only it didn't, because I wouldn't let it. I balanced on the sloping footholds above the overhang, my hands in the shallow break above, composed myself, breathed and moved up. I topped out with no dramas and S and S followed easily, both vowing to lead it next time!

 

 

Sunday saw me team up with Rob Hunt from Lancs Caving and Climbing Club. I'd only ever bouldered with Rob before, at Brownstones a few weeks back, so it would be good to climb with and get to know him a bit better. Rob suggested a venue called Troy Quarry, near Haslingden. I'd never climbed here so I eagerly agreed, looking forward to sampling pastures new.

 

I was not disappointed! What a fantastic place and really quite picturesque and scenic for a quarry! There is a large quarry 'pond' which the quarry face rises up from in many places (deep water soloing opportunity?!) and even a free standing stone 'block' which I'm told used to seat the 'stone crusher' when the quarry was still 'active'.

 

 

 

The climbing is typical Lancashire quarry although with perhaps fewer 'sandbags' than other Lancs hotspots like the Wilton massif. Climbs here do tend to be mainly in the mid to hard grade brackets with not much for the V Diff to Severe climber. There are routes a plenty however in the mid grade range, lots of VS's and HVS's, some real classics too! All are on the steep side, slab climbers may want to look elsewhere! Sharp square holds and equally sharp jamming cracks are the menu of the day.

 

I led the first route of the day, a HS 4b called Stacked Decks and a 2* route. I loved this lead! A layback flake to start followed by a step right and a finish up a corner crack. The moves are not hard but it pays to keep moving as it is steep and consequently, although good, the gear can feel quite difficult to place. The trick as always, get feet sorted, get comfortable, breath, place gear, move. I was soon up. I was pleased with this lead, it is probably the hardest route I've led since my return to climbing that I haven't done before, an onsight if you will!

 

 

 

Rob then lead our second route, a VS 4c called Cracked Wall. Basically, a straightish crack rising out of a kind of 'pod' like feature. Much like my lead, there was lots of gear but best not to hang around too long placing it!

 

My next lead was one of only two Severes on the crag, Left Siamese Twin S 4a. Nice, really nice! I think this would be a great first Severe lead. Lots of gear, not particularly hard, but it's steep and feels higher than it's 40ft due to the steep ground drop away. Another lead I really enjoyed.

 

 

 

 

We then moved onto a HVS 5a called Mucky Pups! I will be back to lead this one day soon, no doubt! I really enjoyed seconding Rob on it, nothing too technical although again a tad pumpy! A deep and steep corner crack, capped at half height by the crux overlap and finishing up the continuation crack above, a definite 2* route and highly recommended! I was loving Troy!

 

 

 

And so to the last route of the day and my weekend as a whole. Another VS 4c led by Rob, Pillar Cracks. Not unlike the other routes we'd climbed (quarry climbing can seem a bit like that, each route feeling 'samey'!) and yet with it's own idiosyncrasies, another route I will definitely return to lead!

 

I can't recommend Troy Quarry enough! I had a fantastic day there. Great company (Rob was a gent to climb with!), superb location and top climbing, the perfect end to my weekend!

 

I headed home a happy man! All goals for the weekend achieved and in some cases surpassed, my climbing is definitely getting there, but more importantly, I'm the best climber in the world, because I'm having fun!

 

 





 

A Week of Training

The last week or so has seen me unable to get outside to climb, work and family occasionally have to come first! So, I shoehorned in a few indoor sessions.....and was pleasantly surprised!

Last week, I had to work away for a couple of days, Northampton to be precise. So whilst down there, I decided to try out the local wall for a spot of bouldering. The Pinnacle Centre www.thepinnaclecentre.co.uk is a nice place, friendly staff and good facilities. the climbing is good in terms of quality but perhaps a little lacking in volume and height. It is not the biggest wall in the country. That said, I had a good couple of hours session in 'the cave' and found myself climbing up to v5 (although v5 here felt like v4 at www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk ). With bouldering varying from crimpy, balancy slabs to monster pull fests through 60deg roofs, it was a good all round workout. I'm really focusing on footwork and technique in theses sessions. Sure my arms are getting a workout too but I know my footwork, particularly when under pressure, is where I need most work.

My second session was at Rockover. New routes set, it was well worth the visit. My routine consisted of a 5a, 6a, 6b+ traverse warm up with 30 second rest inbetween. The traverse wall is probably around 40 ft length. I then did problems up to v4 and managed to flash every one.......a first!

My final session was a roped session at www.manchesterclimbingcentre.com . Again starting with a traverse warm up at 6a I then managed to climb up to 6b with a couple of 6a's and 6a+s in there. I took a fall on the 6b and it was purely down to my inability to work out moves indoors sometimes. Outdoors, I see a crack, I instantly know to jam or layback it and probably will know which too. Indoors, I see holds bolted to a wall, I see a face climb. I'm learning this isn't always the case. The route in question was a layback exercise.......and as it turned out, a really nice technique workout, making you turn and layback facing both in and out. A gentle boulder session was used to warm down although as a warm down, after busting blood vessels on a v4 mantle fest, it probably wasn't the wisest move!

As a post script to the above, the next day, my calves ached! This is quite significant for me, it means I'm using my feet!

A Weekend of Progress

A free weekend and a weather forecast which was quite frankly perfect, 2 days climbing seemed like the only sensible option!

On Saturday, I climbed with Sam at Windgather, a favourite place of ours, kind of like a comfort blanket if you will. Whenever we get spat off a crag we always return to Windgather for a dose of 'there there there it'll be alright'. Don't get me wrong, there is some decent climbing to be had at Windgather, it's just that the whole place has this relaxed almost serene atmosphere about it. So, it seemed a sensible choice, myself having been a bit chewed up after my recent Stanage visit and Sam, still a relative novice and not having climbed outdoors for a while.

I had decided before hand that I wanted to lead less well protected routes. If you read my last post you'll understand why. They say fear is a perfectly natural and healthy thing to experience, it's how you deal with that fear, how you fight to face it, that's the key. This was about going eyeball to eyeball with my fear.

I started on an easy grade VD but with no protection until very near the top. It was pretty much a solo. I led it comfortably and Sam followed with ease.

Sams favourite route on the crag is High Buttress Arete, a 2* Diff which if a little taller would get the ultimate 3*. Good climbing and with the top few moves in a fantastic position. Sam led it like she'd never been away. We were played 2 won 2.

For my next lead I upped the anti with a severe 4a. Again with little protection until the final few moves. No problems at all. My climbing was good. Smooth, considered. I was trying to focus solely on each move. Not the position, not the height, not the gear (or lack of!), just the move. It was working.

Sam then led a nice HV Diff, Wall Climb. It has a lively overhanging finish to it with 2 choices of style, inside or outside! Sam chose inside ( a closet caver!) and deliberately placed protection in there so that would be the way I'd have to go......and knowing my complete lack of any sort of affection for anything approaching chimney like! it's a nice route to be fair and whether you choose inside or out, the moves are good.

I then led another S 4a, nose direct. decent protection all the way on this route but with quite committing moves over the bulge and a well positioned finish. I placed 2 pieces, 1 low down and another just below the crux and that was it, deliberately. I knew I could climb the top wall, I didn't need the gear. It was another personal victory.

Sam's final lead was also a severe, Green Crack S 4a. ok just by the name you see what I'm getting at with 'closet caver'! The slimy orifice in the name actually refers to the last 10 feet or so which do indeed involve a struggle with a deep slimy off width cleft through the slightly overhanging buttress. Actually, as with Wall Climb, there is an 'inside or out' choice. Only this time, the crack being off width, meant Sam had to place gear at it's start but no more after that. Which is exactly what she did......and then proceeded to crawl into the damn thing and squirm her way up gleefully. This isn't any need escape the exposure of staying outside, Sam will pretty much climb anything. No this is just pure masochistic need......each to their own. she did climb it well though to be fair! I followed and with equal glee, removed the gear and then bridged either side of said crack, the damn thing wasn't eating me!

My last lead, my nemesis........well one of them anyway! Earlier in the summer, we'd visited Windgather and I'd been climbing well. I decided to try a HS 4b called Green Slab. Long story short, I did the crux move but couldn't find anymore gear after that and basically bailed. after, I was furious with myself and swore that I was doing the thing on my return. So here I was, in front of the route again. I trotted up the first slab to the bulge, placed the gear and pulled over easily. The crux done, I composed myself and focused on the moves of the upper slab......which just felt so easy!

It's baffling how this fear thing works. How it can appear at anytime and it's a miserable horrible thing. So it is wonderfully satisfying to go back to the very thing that scared you and not only take it on again, but comprehensively kick it's backside.......today was a good day!

On Sunday, I had arranged to climb with someone I hadn't climbed with before and in fact had never even met. Brian is a Lancashire Caving and Climbing Club member and was taking me out on my second 'meet' with a club member (I need 5 to then be able to join as a full member). I met a few good chaps at the first meet at Brownstones and had no reason to think there'd be any problems.

Except, also throw into the equation we were going to Stanage!

it was only a matter of a couple of weeks since my last visit so I was fully aware how much of a bold move this was for me and it could easily go quite wrong! I think sometimes, occasionally, it's ok to be proud of yourself. For me, this was one of those days, it was a really great day!

I led the first route, Hoaxers Crack HS 4b. This was a big step forward for me personally this lead. I only managed to place one piece of gear! the start of the route is a fingery crack and small slopers for feet, the crack being too shallow for gear....and fingers! Quite technical. A semi rest below a bulge and an opportunity to place gear. the crux pull over the bulge to ok holds and then 2 or 3 more moves to a very satisfying (and rare!) flat top out. I was pleased with this lead.

Brian then lead a VS next door to my route, VS 4c. I followed comfortably. On reaching the top Brian commented to me that he felt I'd been 'sandbagged' on my lead and that Hoaxers Crack had to be the same grade as this one, it felt at least as difficult. So having been pleased with my lead before, I was now delighted with it!

Our next route was a big step up for me. Brian wanted to try an HVS 5b just along the crag. The route is called Rugosity Crack. In summary, Brian led it superbly! He commented afterwards during a conversation that he'd not felt 'this brave' for ages......and it showed! It was a really impressive lead. Now my turn. the wall to the first break and the start of the crack in the name is fairly straightforward. The crack itself is quite shallow with just a couple of places for finger jam/locks. Small slopers provide the minimal footholds. A couple of semi layaway moves lead to the crux to reach the break. Brian is a couple of inches taller than me and was able to get the break almost as soon as he stepped up. I worked out I had to utilise a crimpy 'rugosity' on the right wall to give me enough height to gain the break with my left hand. The rest of the route was then fairly steady although on the rounded side. I didn't climb this perfectly by any means......but I climbed it well enough! I was very pleased. This was steep and first proper finger crack I'd been on in a long time......Excellent!

Our next route was called Prudence. another HVS 5b. Another fantastic lead by Brian saw him at the top in no time. My 'ascent' didn't go entirely to plan but...........
I laybacked the flake crack to the first ledge with no difficulties. I then proceeded to remove 2 pieces of gear which thankfully I quickly realised weren't ours, but in fact belonged to another leader on a different route. in fact at one point there were 3 parties all criss crossing each others routes! I quickly replaced the gear and then moved up to Brian's next placement just below the crux finger crack section. I couldn't budge the thing.....at all.......despite drawing blood! In agreement with Brian I unclipped and carried on. I made the next couple of moves but could feel my arms were drained. 2 days consecutive climbing and an almighty struggle with a stubborn wire, had taken its toll. I had to retreat and Brian cleaned the route by abseil.

I was glad to come away from that area though. It was incredibly busy. It's something I will have to get used to. Learn to zone out all the distractions. People are entitled to use the crag just like me and I welcome that. It's my issue to get round and deal with but I think its simply a case of keep visiting busier crags in order to just get used to it. It's new to me, just how popular climbing has become. when I climbed years ago, on that stretch of Stanage, there would be maybe 4 or 5 other 'parties'. On Sunday there were maybe 100. I just need to get used to the change.

We moved back to the area we'd vacated for our last couple of routes. Both of these were led by Brian at VS 4c. One in particular was a tricky little thing with marginal protection and none at the crux and finished with a horrendous rounded topout which neither of s managed to do with any particular style. No matter. An excellent day. I was shattered but in a good way! Yes I'd backed off a HVS 5b......but so what, I was backing off Severes not too long ago.......this has been a weekend of progress.

One step forwards......

I've managed to get out climbing a couple of times since my first post aswell as a few indoor bouldering sessions. I'm climbing better, feel strong, feel fit, feel in control......or at least I thought I did!

My first venture outside was to Wilton 3 quarry, part of a family of 4, nestled in the hills above Bolton. For anyone who doesn't know the Wilton family, they appear such a lovely bunch on first meeting them, but don't let the seductive sweet smile of quarried gritstone lull you into a false sense of security, they will quite happily reduce the unsuspecting folk to quivering wrecks. This is Lancashire!

My buddy for the day Chris, is a relative novice, particularly to outside trad climbing, being more of a gym rat! So I set off up Parallel Cracks S4a. No dramas, all very smooth.

We moved onto Forked Cracks VS4b. Again no dramas, we both cruised to the top in no time.

We then moved to rappel wall area and I set off up Mo VS 4b. I got to 2/3rds height and backed off1

Now, for those who don't know me, I sometimes struggle with the head games in climbing, the psychology. I can literally be paralysed with fear, all rational thought and control gone, I have to fight like mad against this. It is a climbers worst nightmare, like a golfer with the yips. It is extremely hard to break the pattern.

To finish and to restore some confidence, we finished with Oak Leaf Crack VD......totally in control, I have to finish on a positive note and although VD is easy, trust me, having backed off one moments earlier, topping out on anything straight after is a big personal achievement!

My next outdoor trip was over to Stanage in the peak district. I have a strong affinity with Stanage stretching back many years. I did my first ever VS lead here many moons ago. Today however, I just wasn't in the mood. I'd been looking forward to the trip all week, the weather forecast being perfect and despite my 'setback' at Wilton, I was feeling confident.

The day arrived and all that changed. Even whilst packing my gear in the car before setting off, I could feel the fear creeping up on me. The uncertainty, the nervousness, the doubts.

I was climbing that day with Sharon, technically a really good climber but also short on confidence sometimes. So we started with Black Hawk Traverse Left VD 3*. For all my time spent at Stanage, I'd never done his route. the technical 'crux' is quite low down and nothing too hard. But technical difficulty isn't the problem for me. I cruised up to 2/3rds height and then started to feel the panic appear. I had to force every sinew of myself to concentrate on the task at hand, on the climbing, nothing else. I forced myself to breath deep and slow and then made the final moves to the top. It is a fantastic feeling, to have conquered not only the route, but also my own personal fear.

Stanage by now was like Market Street in Manchester on a Saturday afternoon. There was even a drone buzzing annoyingly overhead, like having a giant wasp buzzing next to you! I knew I was struggling, my poor climbing form and subsequent mood making me less tolerant of things around me. I really wasn't enjoying the day!

We moved to Hollybush Crack, again VD 3*. Sharon led and climbed it superbly, never missing a beat and so smooth. I followed and climbed fine til about 10 feet from the top. I was trying to retrieve Sharon's last cam. It got stuck, I got panicky, it wasn't pretty. I eventually got the gear out and composed myself to top out. But by now I really wasn't happy.

I decided to try and 'shock' this feeling out of my system and try something harder. Foolish? Maybe!

We moved to Heather Wall VS 4c. I lead smoothly to half height. I'd done the technical crux and had maybe 2 more testing moves before easy ground. So why did I panic? why did I back off?

I felt quite low afterwards. Thinking it was a mistake to try it. But now, after thought, I don't believe that to be the case. I don't believe the day was a total failure and in fact I'm taking more positives than negatives from it. I did climb some stuff and I did climb well and confidently at times. I did manage to control my fears for the most part. It has also shown me what I need to work on. My technique, my physical ability are not in question. My mental strength definitely is!

This journey, to becoming a mountain guide, is more than just being physically competent for me personally. I know I will also have to battle my own personal climbing demons to achieve my goal. But I WILL do it, I WILL beat this fear and achieve my goal!