Solos, Downable Climbable and Beautiful Quarries

The weather was once again a climbers dream this weekend, I got to thinking how lucky we've been this summer and certainly in recent weeks. So 2 days full climbing it was again!

With my regular climbing buddies Sam and Sharon on Saturday and we opted for Windgather. I know we climb here a lot but do you know, I never tire of the place. Yes it's not very high or particularly difficult, it's just something about the serenity of the place, even when busy, which draws me back again and again.

I'd set myself goals though, it wasn't all about peacefulness and relaxation, I had work to do. I got there a little earlier than S and S and so decided to try my first 'solos' for many years. Regular readers of this blog will know the significance of this for me. I started on a diff crack and then traversed out onto an exposed arête to finish up a HVD, the exposure I knew would be the indicator as to where my 'climbing head' was at. It was all good, I climbed smoothly, taking my time, pausing at each move to find the best way, concentrating on feet and movement.

I moved onto a v diff crack, a little laybacking involved and so a bit more committing. Again I managed this confidently and topped out without drama. What I thought would be my final solo of the day (I saw that S and S had arrived), was crag classic diff called high buttress arête, so called because it is indeed on the crags highest buttress at a mighty 40ft! Ok, it's not huge by any stretch of the imagination......but with no rope and my head, it might well have been 1000ft. I led this at the start of summer and placed 3 maybe even 4 pieces of gear in the thing and now here I was about to do it ropeless. The first section is a nice crack up the side face, all good holds as you can imagine on a diff. About 10ft from the top, the route then moves left onto the front face of the buttress, nicely exposed and balancy. It felt just brilliant, climbing in control, I enjoyed every single move and that feeling of confidence, in ones own ability, on topping out, I had a smile on my face from ear to ear!

then the terrible twins arrived, my peace shattered as the banter began immediately and mostly at my expense! I love climbing with these 2. I love the social aspect as much if not more than the climbing. We have fun and as someone once said 'the best climber is the one who is having the most fun'!

Banter abated temporarily, as a warm up and to catch me up, S and S did the HVD I'd soloed earlier. I of course didn't make any remarks at all at the amount of gear being placed on a route I'd skipped up with no rope, that wouldn't be like me at all!

I should have kept my mouth shut! I set off up what I though was a severe 4a. Crack, overhang, crack, finish. I got to just below the overhang, placed some gear and reached over the top.......to find the hugest jug ever! I hopped over and topped out to exclaim how disappointing it was for a severe! I was then told, by S and S .......and 2 complete strangers, that they had tried to tell me before I set off, that the route wasn't in fact a severe but a moderate! Oh I got some stick for placing gear on a moderate, I don't think I'll ever live it down!

So as punishment, I had to lead the next route along, which was in fact the route I should have been on and was indeed a severe........which I then ended up soloing as I couldn't find any gear to place.......so basically, I'm now soloing severes and yet placing gear in moderates.....pretty much sums me up really!

Sam then led a severe also (see photos above), a really good lead having not climbed at all for a few weeks, in fact it was the last time we were here together. Then to finish off in that particular section of the crag S and S decided they would also do their first solo, the diff crack I'd done earlier. Both did it no problem, 3 of us, on our first solos, a good day!

Also at this point, we learned a new climbing term, the conversation going something like this.....Sharon, from the crag top "is this route easy enough to down climb?" Stranger in reply "yes it's downable climbable"........ 'downable climbable', if it wasn't a thing before, it is now!

Sharon then led a Severe aswell, Mississippi Crack. This is a lovely route, with a nice move or two through some overlaps and up a continuation crack. A little bit nervous before climbing having felt she'd found the route, well one move in particular, a bit tough and committing when climbing it before. This lead I think summed up nicely how well we have all come on over the summer, she led it really well. As good as she's climbed if you ask me.

My next lead was a HS 4b I'd never done before called The Medicine. This route is 35ft long.......and I managed to get lost! I actually think I did 3 different routes in 1 go which must count as some sort of record?! The route goes like this.......a short slabby wall leads to an overlap, a steep pull and semi mantle and you're established on the top wall and then the top. Only, in making the pull over the overlap, I somehow managed to follow 'a natural line' diagonally right, ending up on a ledge belonging to a whole other route! I honestly have no idea how this happened.....but it did cause much mirth amongst my 2 climbing companions who thought it hilarious.......so hilarious in fact that one of the 2 decided to take a whole series of photos cataloguing the event........

 

And so, thinking that maybe as the last route of the day was to come, and it wouldn't be my lead, there surely would be no more dramas, would there?

 

It was either Sam or Sharons lead next but having discussed it, they both wanted to do Green Slab again, HS 4b.........although neither fancied leading it this time.......next time though! I'd led this a couple of weeks before having backed off it before that. With only one piece of gear at the crux and nothing above, although easy, the climbing is quite committing. I set off on the lead, placed the gear, and began the crux move, only to hear that dreaded sound, half way through the move, of my gear lifting out! I could feel my head starting it's alarm bell sequence, slight panic beginning to rise. Only it didn't, because I wouldn't let it. I balanced on the sloping footholds above the overhang, my hands in the shallow break above, composed myself, breathed and moved up. I topped out with no dramas and S and S followed easily, both vowing to lead it next time!

 

 

Sunday saw me team up with Rob Hunt from Lancs Caving and Climbing Club. I'd only ever bouldered with Rob before, at Brownstones a few weeks back, so it would be good to climb with and get to know him a bit better. Rob suggested a venue called Troy Quarry, near Haslingden. I'd never climbed here so I eagerly agreed, looking forward to sampling pastures new.

 

I was not disappointed! What a fantastic place and really quite picturesque and scenic for a quarry! There is a large quarry 'pond' which the quarry face rises up from in many places (deep water soloing opportunity?!) and even a free standing stone 'block' which I'm told used to seat the 'stone crusher' when the quarry was still 'active'.

 

 

 

The climbing is typical Lancashire quarry although with perhaps fewer 'sandbags' than other Lancs hotspots like the Wilton massif. Climbs here do tend to be mainly in the mid to hard grade brackets with not much for the V Diff to Severe climber. There are routes a plenty however in the mid grade range, lots of VS's and HVS's, some real classics too! All are on the steep side, slab climbers may want to look elsewhere! Sharp square holds and equally sharp jamming cracks are the menu of the day.

 

I led the first route of the day, a HS 4b called Stacked Decks and a 2* route. I loved this lead! A layback flake to start followed by a step right and a finish up a corner crack. The moves are not hard but it pays to keep moving as it is steep and consequently, although good, the gear can feel quite difficult to place. The trick as always, get feet sorted, get comfortable, breath, place gear, move. I was soon up. I was pleased with this lead, it is probably the hardest route I've led since my return to climbing that I haven't done before, an onsight if you will!

 

 

 

Rob then lead our second route, a VS 4c called Cracked Wall. Basically, a straightish crack rising out of a kind of 'pod' like feature. Much like my lead, there was lots of gear but best not to hang around too long placing it!

 

My next lead was one of only two Severes on the crag, Left Siamese Twin S 4a. Nice, really nice! I think this would be a great first Severe lead. Lots of gear, not particularly hard, but it's steep and feels higher than it's 40ft due to the steep ground drop away. Another lead I really enjoyed.

 

 

 

 

We then moved onto a HVS 5a called Mucky Pups! I will be back to lead this one day soon, no doubt! I really enjoyed seconding Rob on it, nothing too technical although again a tad pumpy! A deep and steep corner crack, capped at half height by the crux overlap and finishing up the continuation crack above, a definite 2* route and highly recommended! I was loving Troy!

 

 

 

And so to the last route of the day and my weekend as a whole. Another VS 4c led by Rob, Pillar Cracks. Not unlike the other routes we'd climbed (quarry climbing can seem a bit like that, each route feeling 'samey'!) and yet with it's own idiosyncrasies, another route I will definitely return to lead!

 

I can't recommend Troy Quarry enough! I had a fantastic day there. Great company (Rob was a gent to climb with!), superb location and top climbing, the perfect end to my weekend!

 

I headed home a happy man! All goals for the weekend achieved and in some cases surpassed, my climbing is definitely getting there, but more importantly, I'm the best climber in the world, because I'm having fun!

 

 





 

A Week of Training

The last week or so has seen me unable to get outside to climb, work and family occasionally have to come first! So, I shoehorned in a few indoor sessions.....and was pleasantly surprised!

Last week, I had to work away for a couple of days, Northampton to be precise. So whilst down there, I decided to try out the local wall for a spot of bouldering. The Pinnacle Centre www.thepinnaclecentre.co.uk is a nice place, friendly staff and good facilities. the climbing is good in terms of quality but perhaps a little lacking in volume and height. It is not the biggest wall in the country. That said, I had a good couple of hours session in 'the cave' and found myself climbing up to v5 (although v5 here felt like v4 at www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk ). With bouldering varying from crimpy, balancy slabs to monster pull fests through 60deg roofs, it was a good all round workout. I'm really focusing on footwork and technique in theses sessions. Sure my arms are getting a workout too but I know my footwork, particularly when under pressure, is where I need most work.

My second session was at Rockover. New routes set, it was well worth the visit. My routine consisted of a 5a, 6a, 6b+ traverse warm up with 30 second rest inbetween. The traverse wall is probably around 40 ft length. I then did problems up to v4 and managed to flash every one.......a first!

My final session was a roped session at www.manchesterclimbingcentre.com . Again starting with a traverse warm up at 6a I then managed to climb up to 6b with a couple of 6a's and 6a+s in there. I took a fall on the 6b and it was purely down to my inability to work out moves indoors sometimes. Outdoors, I see a crack, I instantly know to jam or layback it and probably will know which too. Indoors, I see holds bolted to a wall, I see a face climb. I'm learning this isn't always the case. The route in question was a layback exercise.......and as it turned out, a really nice technique workout, making you turn and layback facing both in and out. A gentle boulder session was used to warm down although as a warm down, after busting blood vessels on a v4 mantle fest, it probably wasn't the wisest move!

As a post script to the above, the next day, my calves ached! This is quite significant for me, it means I'm using my feet!

A Weekend of Progress

A free weekend and a weather forecast which was quite frankly perfect, 2 days climbing seemed like the only sensible option!

On Saturday, I climbed with Sam at Windgather, a favourite place of ours, kind of like a comfort blanket if you will. Whenever we get spat off a crag we always return to Windgather for a dose of 'there there there it'll be alright'. Don't get me wrong, there is some decent climbing to be had at Windgather, it's just that the whole place has this relaxed almost serene atmosphere about it. So, it seemed a sensible choice, myself having been a bit chewed up after my recent Stanage visit and Sam, still a relative novice and not having climbed outdoors for a while.

I had decided before hand that I wanted to lead less well protected routes. If you read my last post you'll understand why. They say fear is a perfectly natural and healthy thing to experience, it's how you deal with that fear, how you fight to face it, that's the key. This was about going eyeball to eyeball with my fear.

I started on an easy grade VD but with no protection until very near the top. It was pretty much a solo. I led it comfortably and Sam followed with ease.

Sams favourite route on the crag is High Buttress Arete, a 2* Diff which if a little taller would get the ultimate 3*. Good climbing and with the top few moves in a fantastic position. Sam led it like she'd never been away. We were played 2 won 2.

For my next lead I upped the anti with a severe 4a. Again with little protection until the final few moves. No problems at all. My climbing was good. Smooth, considered. I was trying to focus solely on each move. Not the position, not the height, not the gear (or lack of!), just the move. It was working.

Sam then led a nice HV Diff, Wall Climb. It has a lively overhanging finish to it with 2 choices of style, inside or outside! Sam chose inside ( a closet caver!) and deliberately placed protection in there so that would be the way I'd have to go......and knowing my complete lack of any sort of affection for anything approaching chimney like! it's a nice route to be fair and whether you choose inside or out, the moves are good.

I then led another S 4a, nose direct. decent protection all the way on this route but with quite committing moves over the bulge and a well positioned finish. I placed 2 pieces, 1 low down and another just below the crux and that was it, deliberately. I knew I could climb the top wall, I didn't need the gear. It was another personal victory.

Sam's final lead was also a severe, Green Crack S 4a. ok just by the name you see what I'm getting at with 'closet caver'! The slimy orifice in the name actually refers to the last 10 feet or so which do indeed involve a struggle with a deep slimy off width cleft through the slightly overhanging buttress. Actually, as with Wall Climb, there is an 'inside or out' choice. Only this time, the crack being off width, meant Sam had to place gear at it's start but no more after that. Which is exactly what she did......and then proceeded to crawl into the damn thing and squirm her way up gleefully. This isn't any need escape the exposure of staying outside, Sam will pretty much climb anything. No this is just pure masochistic need......each to their own. she did climb it well though to be fair! I followed and with equal glee, removed the gear and then bridged either side of said crack, the damn thing wasn't eating me!

My last lead, my nemesis........well one of them anyway! Earlier in the summer, we'd visited Windgather and I'd been climbing well. I decided to try a HS 4b called Green Slab. Long story short, I did the crux move but couldn't find anymore gear after that and basically bailed. after, I was furious with myself and swore that I was doing the thing on my return. So here I was, in front of the route again. I trotted up the first slab to the bulge, placed the gear and pulled over easily. The crux done, I composed myself and focused on the moves of the upper slab......which just felt so easy!

It's baffling how this fear thing works. How it can appear at anytime and it's a miserable horrible thing. So it is wonderfully satisfying to go back to the very thing that scared you and not only take it on again, but comprehensively kick it's backside.......today was a good day!

On Sunday, I had arranged to climb with someone I hadn't climbed with before and in fact had never even met. Brian is a Lancashire Caving and Climbing Club member and was taking me out on my second 'meet' with a club member (I need 5 to then be able to join as a full member). I met a few good chaps at the first meet at Brownstones and had no reason to think there'd be any problems.

Except, also throw into the equation we were going to Stanage!

it was only a matter of a couple of weeks since my last visit so I was fully aware how much of a bold move this was for me and it could easily go quite wrong! I think sometimes, occasionally, it's ok to be proud of yourself. For me, this was one of those days, it was a really great day!

I led the first route, Hoaxers Crack HS 4b. This was a big step forward for me personally this lead. I only managed to place one piece of gear! the start of the route is a fingery crack and small slopers for feet, the crack being too shallow for gear....and fingers! Quite technical. A semi rest below a bulge and an opportunity to place gear. the crux pull over the bulge to ok holds and then 2 or 3 more moves to a very satisfying (and rare!) flat top out. I was pleased with this lead.

Brian then lead a VS next door to my route, VS 4c. I followed comfortably. On reaching the top Brian commented to me that he felt I'd been 'sandbagged' on my lead and that Hoaxers Crack had to be the same grade as this one, it felt at least as difficult. So having been pleased with my lead before, I was now delighted with it!

Our next route was a big step up for me. Brian wanted to try an HVS 5b just along the crag. The route is called Rugosity Crack. In summary, Brian led it superbly! He commented afterwards during a conversation that he'd not felt 'this brave' for ages......and it showed! It was a really impressive lead. Now my turn. the wall to the first break and the start of the crack in the name is fairly straightforward. The crack itself is quite shallow with just a couple of places for finger jam/locks. Small slopers provide the minimal footholds. A couple of semi layaway moves lead to the crux to reach the break. Brian is a couple of inches taller than me and was able to get the break almost as soon as he stepped up. I worked out I had to utilise a crimpy 'rugosity' on the right wall to give me enough height to gain the break with my left hand. The rest of the route was then fairly steady although on the rounded side. I didn't climb this perfectly by any means......but I climbed it well enough! I was very pleased. This was steep and first proper finger crack I'd been on in a long time......Excellent!

Our next route was called Prudence. another HVS 5b. Another fantastic lead by Brian saw him at the top in no time. My 'ascent' didn't go entirely to plan but...........
I laybacked the flake crack to the first ledge with no difficulties. I then proceeded to remove 2 pieces of gear which thankfully I quickly realised weren't ours, but in fact belonged to another leader on a different route. in fact at one point there were 3 parties all criss crossing each others routes! I quickly replaced the gear and then moved up to Brian's next placement just below the crux finger crack section. I couldn't budge the thing.....at all.......despite drawing blood! In agreement with Brian I unclipped and carried on. I made the next couple of moves but could feel my arms were drained. 2 days consecutive climbing and an almighty struggle with a stubborn wire, had taken its toll. I had to retreat and Brian cleaned the route by abseil.

I was glad to come away from that area though. It was incredibly busy. It's something I will have to get used to. Learn to zone out all the distractions. People are entitled to use the crag just like me and I welcome that. It's my issue to get round and deal with but I think its simply a case of keep visiting busier crags in order to just get used to it. It's new to me, just how popular climbing has become. when I climbed years ago, on that stretch of Stanage, there would be maybe 4 or 5 other 'parties'. On Sunday there were maybe 100. I just need to get used to the change.

We moved back to the area we'd vacated for our last couple of routes. Both of these were led by Brian at VS 4c. One in particular was a tricky little thing with marginal protection and none at the crux and finished with a horrendous rounded topout which neither of s managed to do with any particular style. No matter. An excellent day. I was shattered but in a good way! Yes I'd backed off a HVS 5b......but so what, I was backing off Severes not too long ago.......this has been a weekend of progress.

One step forwards......

I've managed to get out climbing a couple of times since my first post aswell as a few indoor bouldering sessions. I'm climbing better, feel strong, feel fit, feel in control......or at least I thought I did!

My first venture outside was to Wilton 3 quarry, part of a family of 4, nestled in the hills above Bolton. For anyone who doesn't know the Wilton family, they appear such a lovely bunch on first meeting them, but don't let the seductive sweet smile of quarried gritstone lull you into a false sense of security, they will quite happily reduce the unsuspecting folk to quivering wrecks. This is Lancashire!

My buddy for the day Chris, is a relative novice, particularly to outside trad climbing, being more of a gym rat! So I set off up Parallel Cracks S4a. No dramas, all very smooth.

We moved onto Forked Cracks VS4b. Again no dramas, we both cruised to the top in no time.

We then moved to rappel wall area and I set off up Mo VS 4b. I got to 2/3rds height and backed off1

Now, for those who don't know me, I sometimes struggle with the head games in climbing, the psychology. I can literally be paralysed with fear, all rational thought and control gone, I have to fight like mad against this. It is a climbers worst nightmare, like a golfer with the yips. It is extremely hard to break the pattern.

To finish and to restore some confidence, we finished with Oak Leaf Crack VD......totally in control, I have to finish on a positive note and although VD is easy, trust me, having backed off one moments earlier, topping out on anything straight after is a big personal achievement!

My next outdoor trip was over to Stanage in the peak district. I have a strong affinity with Stanage stretching back many years. I did my first ever VS lead here many moons ago. Today however, I just wasn't in the mood. I'd been looking forward to the trip all week, the weather forecast being perfect and despite my 'setback' at Wilton, I was feeling confident.

The day arrived and all that changed. Even whilst packing my gear in the car before setting off, I could feel the fear creeping up on me. The uncertainty, the nervousness, the doubts.

I was climbing that day with Sharon, technically a really good climber but also short on confidence sometimes. So we started with Black Hawk Traverse Left VD 3*. For all my time spent at Stanage, I'd never done his route. the technical 'crux' is quite low down and nothing too hard. But technical difficulty isn't the problem for me. I cruised up to 2/3rds height and then started to feel the panic appear. I had to force every sinew of myself to concentrate on the task at hand, on the climbing, nothing else. I forced myself to breath deep and slow and then made the final moves to the top. It is a fantastic feeling, to have conquered not only the route, but also my own personal fear.

Stanage by now was like Market Street in Manchester on a Saturday afternoon. There was even a drone buzzing annoyingly overhead, like having a giant wasp buzzing next to you! I knew I was struggling, my poor climbing form and subsequent mood making me less tolerant of things around me. I really wasn't enjoying the day!

We moved to Hollybush Crack, again VD 3*. Sharon led and climbed it superbly, never missing a beat and so smooth. I followed and climbed fine til about 10 feet from the top. I was trying to retrieve Sharon's last cam. It got stuck, I got panicky, it wasn't pretty. I eventually got the gear out and composed myself to top out. But by now I really wasn't happy.

I decided to try and 'shock' this feeling out of my system and try something harder. Foolish? Maybe!

We moved to Heather Wall VS 4c. I lead smoothly to half height. I'd done the technical crux and had maybe 2 more testing moves before easy ground. So why did I panic? why did I back off?

I felt quite low afterwards. Thinking it was a mistake to try it. But now, after thought, I don't believe that to be the case. I don't believe the day was a total failure and in fact I'm taking more positives than negatives from it. I did climb some stuff and I did climb well and confidently at times. I did manage to control my fears for the most part. It has also shown me what I need to work on. My technique, my physical ability are not in question. My mental strength definitely is!

This journey, to becoming a mountain guide, is more than just being physically competent for me personally. I know I will also have to battle my own personal climbing demons to achieve my goal. But I WILL do it, I WILL beat this fear and achieve my goal!

I first started rock climbing in 1978. Wow, nearly 40 years ago! I started with the school club. Once weekly trips to Stanage or the local quarries of Wilton. We also made a once a year week long pilgrimage to The Lakes or North Wales.

On leaving school I carried on climbing and got myself to the grade of E3 5c leading trad. Then, well, life got in the way really. Family, work, other commitments all conspired to see my climbing become more and more irregular. Large time gaps in between sporadic bursts of activity is as best as I could describe it. It got to the stage where I was climbing maybe 3/4 times a year tops. I missed it, a lot! It was always there, in my heart, that yearning, to be outdoors, in the mountains, on rock.

So last year I began climbing again, regularly. I even started to train a little! It has been difficult, starting again. They say it's like riding a bike, you never forget. That hasn't been true for me. Yes I still remember how to tie on, set up a belay, the mechanics I remember. But what I'm having to re learn are the techniques, how to move on the rock, using my feet and the biggest and hardest technique of all, mind control.

I am currently leading HS/4b comfortably with my goal being to get to VS4c by next summer (2016)

Other than just personal pride, there is a specific reason for wanting to reach this grade and this is where this blog comes in. I have set myself the huge task of becoming a mountaineering guide. This will be a loooooooong process. 4/5 years in all probability. I will need to qualify in 2 areas and register on 2 schemes. The MLA (Mountain Leader Award) and then the MIA (Mountain Instructor Award). For the former, I will need to complete 40 days spent in the mountains. 8 nights camping of which 4 must be wild. A 1 week training course and finally a 1 week assessment. For the latter, I will need to complete 80 routes lead at VS4c grade of which a good proportion must be multi pitch mountain and sea cliff routes. A 1 week training course and again, a 1 week assessment. It is going to be a massive undertaking but an awesome journey!

This blog will share my journey, right from the very start to the bitter or hopefully sweet, end!
This is the start. Today I registered for the MLA scheme. I await my log book and then I can start my days in the mountains!