Birchen Edge Lead Training Day

If you read my last post re bouldering, you'll know I'm currently injured. However, a couple of friends of mine were looking at leading their first routes outdoors and so we'd set up this trip a couple of weeks ago. I didn't want to cancel and also figured that if I chose the right venue, somewhere slabby, strain on my arms would be minimal.

So I settled on Birchen Edge, which turned out to be the perfect choice!

Unfortunately, one of the guys had to drop out which left myself, Adam and Nathan. We set up below Trafalgar Wall. Nathan had decided he didn't want to be on routes so much today and was happy to just potter around with the bouldering mat and so it was myself and Adam who set up for the first route.

Trafalgar Wall....Trafalgar Crack takes the, well, crack. The party to the left are on Camperdown Crawl with Trafalgar Wall taking the rh side of the slab direct.

I put a bit of thought into what routes to do. Adam had only climbed outdoors once before and that was on quarried grit on a 'transition to rock' one day course. Climbing 6b+/6c indoors and bouldering up to V5 ish, I knew he could climb. But, and it's a big but.......climbing on grit edges is different and particularly on cracks and slabs, where everything you've ever been taught about indoor wall climbing techniques, pretty much goes out of the window! So it would be good for Adam not just from a technical perspective (setting up belays, placing gear etc) but also from a climbing technique view point. I chose first to lead Trafalgar Wall itself at S 4b. This route is all about slopers for hands and grit friction for feet. I ran through some tips for Adam....keep your heels low and your body away for the rock, think about where your centre of gravity is and position yourself accordingly, shoulders back on slopers etc. We were both up in no time!

Next up, time to get Adam on his first lead. We ran through gear placement tips and then Adam set off up Trafalgar Crack at VDiff. Nice climbing with lots of gear and a variety of gear too with opportunities to place hexes, nuts and cams. Adam was soon up with no problems at all and so I made my way up to join him and set up the belay. We went through the mechanics of belays, the thought processes in terms of set up, fall directions, load factors etc. We used different knots and I explained why we use them and when. I really enjoy passing on all I've learnt over the years!

By the time we were down, Nathan had re joined us. I think he had been put off a little by Birchen's reputation for being a 'beginners crag' and was maybe expecting all easy routes and queues for each! However, having walked the crag, I think he was pleasantly surprised! He asked if he could join in and chose a line also along Trafalgar Wall which is Camperdown Crawl HS 4c. The crux is low down, a steep pull off a sloping ledge via thin crack and onto the slab itself. I opted out of this one due to the steep pull and really not wanting to aggravate my already aching tendons any further however, both Nathan followed by Adam, really enjoyed the route.

 

Adam cruising Camperdown Crawl HS4c



Next up was Promenade Direct HVD 4a which I chose to lead. Unprotected balancy slab moves lead to a break and gear then a step right to finish up the exposed arête. A really nice route which probably deserves Severe.

 



 

 

Promenade Direct HVD 4a



We then moved further along the crag to the Emmas Slab area and with Adams lead again, I pointed him in the Direction of Emmas Dilemma at S4a. It's a tough little severe this one and although there is lots of gear, in places it's quite difficult to place and really involves good foot and body positioning to find the most comfortable position. A calm head is needed in these situations and I thought it would be good experience for Adam. A steep pull onto the wall gains the crack which is then followed throughout with a tricky bulge at half height. Placing gear to protect the bulge move is where its awkward but Adam managed it no problem at all!

 

 









 









Adam setting up belay after solving the mystery of Emmas Dilemma S4a

 

It was now Nathans lead again and he chose another slabby number in The Crow Nest VS4c. After yet another steep pull onto the wall (a theme of this crag is that the starts of routes tend to be steep and sometimes even undercut and so the crux's tend to be low down sometimes giving the routes lopsided grades like HS 5c!) the slab climbing that follows is really cool and well protected, a cracking route for any aspirant VS leader maybe new to leading grit slabs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Belaying Nathan on The Crows Nest VS 4c

 

 

We saved the best til last and our final 2 routes of the day would be on Sail Buttress. There are 3 Birchen routes in Ken Wilsons tickfest that is Classic Rock - Powder Monkey Parade; Sail Buttress and Topsail. I chose to lead Topsail at VS 4c. A short groove leads to a superb thread runner before a steep pull over a roof and a pad up the finishing slab to safety. It's no pushover despite its stature and as with all overhangs, footwork is the key! It's a little gem of a route and a must tick for any VS leader.

 

 



Finishing off the top slab on Topsail VS 4c

Committing moves over the roof on Topsail VS 4c

Last route of the day and it was only fitting that it should be Adams lead. Sail Buttress is a cracking HS 4b that starts with a difficult mantle onto a ledge and then an airy traverse out above the big roof and onto the slabby arête up which it finishes. Again the crux moves on the traverse are well protected but it's still a committing sequence and would be a test for a new leader. Adam strolled up it, a perfect finish to a cracking day!

 

 

 

Adam polishing off the crux sequence on Sail Buttress HS 4b

 

Adam on the top slab of Sail Buttress HS 4b

 

 

 

Birchen Edge is a marvellous little crag. Yes the routes are on the short side but you know, sometimes good things come in small packages so don't let stature cloud your judgement over quality because you'll be missing out!