Castle Naze

I was struggling to think of somewhere new, somewhere quiet but with good routes to try. The usual names kept jumping into my head and then from nowhere appeared Castle Naze. I'd visited this place once before......and hated every second of it! That day, we managed one route before retreating, wind battered, to the pub. It is very exposed to the elements is Castle Naze, perched high above Whaley Bridge so with the weather being perfect (sunshine and no wind!), now would be a good time to give this place a proper looking over.

The 2 'classics' of the crag are Scoop Face HVS 5a and Nozag VS 4c. I knew Nathan had Scoop on his tick list and so I had in my mind that he would lead that and I would give Nozag a go.

Nathan being Nathan, he was straight away gearing up for Scoop, no warm up route here, straight into the deep end! I have to say this route looks a lot easier than it is! It is also deceptive in terms of the type of climbing required. It looks for all intents and purposes like a nice gentle slab climb, which it is for a couple of moves or so, but there is much more to it than smearing! The start is quite steep and unprotected, up a short wall on polished slopers (I slipped off one hold just as I managed to latch onto the next!). This brings you to the slab section and the first gear. An offset in a shallow crack and a good friend in a break and then a pad across the slab to another thin crack. Up this to another break and gear before moving back left and a finish up a short steep headwall. I won't spoil it for you but the crux is right at the top and the top out itself.....well let's just say if you're harassed, a lunge for the top might not yield what you hope for! It's a marvellous route though and well worth its classic status.

Unlike Nathan, I need a warm up route, not necessarily for the body but for the mind! I chose Studio as my first lead., HS 4b. Steady at the grade really, a mid height crux and good gear throughout, a nice little route.

Next up and Nathans lead again, was Nozag VS 4c. Now as I mentioned earlier, I'd had my eye on this to lead for a while but I'm actually glad I didn't on this particular day if I'm honest. Fairly straightforward climbing brings you to a crack slanting off diagonally to the right. Nozag climbs over this and onto the slabby head wall above. Here the route becomes more technical and balancey, on slopers for the most part. It felt bold even seconding and as with Scoop, the crux is right at the sharp end! A great route which felt harder than Scoop to me, definitely top end VS this, but one I'll be back to lead for sure!

Last up and my lead was Scoop Arete VS 4b. I wanted to lead something a bit bolder and so chose this, the first few moves being completely unprotected. Nice route although I ended up finishing it up a corner as I'd got myself completely on the wrong side of the arête!

A decent day all in all and my faith in Castle Naze was restored! On still summers days, this is a cracking little crag!