I first had to look at why I climb. I had to really question my motives. Is it the challenge? Is it being outside in the fresh air? Is it the physical workout and health benefits? Is it the movement, the satisfaction of solving a particular problem? Over the last few weeks, I have analysed these questions every time I have climbed and have been both surprised and pleased with the answers I have come up with.
I've climbed numerous times since my (what felt like at the time) disastrous visit to Bamford (see last post). I won't chronicle them all in detail here, that would bore me never mind you! So here is a snapshot of what I've been up to.
Witches Quarry
An evening session with the club. 5 routes done, grades up to HVS 5b, one lead which was Cracklap HS 4b. My first lead since Bamford, belayed by Ian Selby from the club who was an absolute star, encouraging me, cajoling me and just generally making me feel relaxed. I got the sincere feeling that all that mattered to Ian was that I got up it......which I did, pretty comfortably as it happens. I really focused on every feeling I was having on this route, taking my time. I noticed, probably for the first time properly, my breathing, how I became short breathed as any anxiety closed in. So I focused on controlling my breathing, concentrating on deep steady breathing throughout the route. I also focused on rationalising any fear, actually working on forcing any rising anxieties back down to where they came from. It was working. Ian led the 5b route and I seconded. I managed all the moves but not particularly stylishly or comfortably. I got pumped, started to panic a little and noticed straight away how my technique completely disappeared when stressed. I had my hands on the top when I asked Ian to 'take me'. He talked me through it brilliantly, the things I was working on, hearing them from someone else, was very reassuring. 'Breathe Andy, you're fine, get your feet sorted', 'there you go, you've done it, no problem'. It literally was as simple as that, breathe, calm your mind, stay relaxed.
From here on in, these are the things I would focus on, at every climbing session. The mind can be trained just like the body right?
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| me leading Cracklap HS 4b |
Raven Crag
A multi pitch day up in The Langdales and superb it was too although cut short by the weather! 3 of us, Rob and Anita and myself did Revelation HS 4b, a 3 pitch route although we climbed it as a 2. Lovely climbing with one steep pull over an overlap at the start of pitch 2 which tested the technique especially as it rained the whole time I was on the pitch, making some of the already polished footholds feel a little precarious. This was my first multi pitch for some years and I really enjoyed myself, a cracking day! Climbing wise, I didn't lead and so was happy to just enjoy the experience, leaving the hard work to Rob and Anita!
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| The Langdales from our walk up to Raven, stunning! |
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| me going over the final bulge on Revelation HS 4b |
Stanage Edge
This was a joint meet between our club and the Lancashire Mountaineering Club. We met at the Pool Café in Hathersage, always a good starting point, full English included! We chose to visit Stanage Popular, not normally a place I enjoy, mainly due to the crowds! However, it turned into a superb day out. There was a poor turnout from our club so I ended up tagging along in a 3 with 2 chaps from the LMC, Pete and Darren. We shared leads on 6 routes and managed to tick 3 top 50's (Hargreaves Original VS 4c, April Crack HS 4a and Christmas Crack HS 4b) as well as RH Trinity a 2 * HS 4b, Narrow Slab VS 4c and finally Oblique Crack S 4a. My leads were RH Trinity and Oblique Crack, the former I found no problem at all and in fact really enjoyed the route. The latter, I had a problem placing gear. I learned another lesson here. Having been focusing on climbing and breathing and staying relaxed, I found that this 'outside' influence, really irritated me! I got annoyed with myself, the gear, the route. I came down and quickly realised what I should have done.....move up to the next gear placement, don't hang around trying to place gear where gear won't go. So, off I set again, this time climbing higher, reaching a place where I could more easily place a good piece and finishing the route with no problems. Another lesson learnt and hopefully now wired in!
But I was enjoying climbing again. These new mind control skills I was learning, it was enjoyable again. And being in control was in and of itself extremely satisfying!
Stanage itself, although busy as usual, also felt different, more relaxed and although we got a fair bit done, it was all very chilled and relaxed.......the banter flying back and forth helps and I loved the way everyone supported each other, with new leaders on the first routes being encouraged and cajoled up, experienced leaders moving up a grade being pushed along, as I say, a superb day!
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| me about to set off up Narrow Buttress VS 4c |
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| Darren seconding me up RH Trinity HS 4b |
Wilton 3
a fun few hours with Tim working one of his projects here. No leading, lots of belaying by me although I did have one go on the potential new route. A blank looking wall leads to a sloping ledge capped by a bulging wall. The start was bouldery, maybe V5/6. Very crimpy but the holds are there, no gear though so it will be a scary lead without a pad. Getting onto the ledge however is a different proposition and I reckon the first crux. I'd need to go back and have a proper go really. Still a fun few hours and a pint in the Wilton Arms after always welcome.
Harcles Quarry
Hmmm, one to forget for me this one, and for once, not because of the climbing! Long story short, this little trip ended up costing me far more than it should on account of this muppet losing his keys......car, house, the lot! I can't even say I enjoyed my first visit to Harcles in terms of purely climbing. It isn't the most inspiring place for me although I accept my judgement may be a tad clouded and I probably should re visit at some point. I was pleased to jump on a TR Tim had rigged up on some E5 6a/b and actually get quite high on it. That particular wall being host to the best lines on the crag, steep, hard but clean at least. The rest of the crag needs traffic and plenty of it, plenty of bush bashing still to be had here!
Armathwaite Crag
Situated in the beautiful Eden Valley in Cumbria just north of Penrith, this little gem of a sandstone outcrop was a cracking find by Elliot, one of our club members. 5 of us made the trip and it was well worth it, 2 of them even wild camping overnight. Surprisingly, I've never climbed on sandstone before, so this was a whole new experience. As Nathan and I walked along the crag base, the first good buttress we came to sported a superb looking slab. Both our eyes lit up but unfortunately it was very wet and although we checked again later in the day, it remained so and therefore will have to be re visited another time! However, we found the group already ensconced on what basically became our private 'beach' for the day, a sandy bay enclosed on 2 sides by the crag and one side by the river. It was just a stunning location to climb and anyone looking for a family friendly climbing day could do much worse than visit this place.......bring a picnic! Climbing wise, I led a MVS 4b Glenwhillie Grooves. Steady climbing with good but fairly spaced gear to a final overhanging wall which I found tricky. It didn't help that as I moved up, the rope seemed to be jamming somewhere below me dragging me back. We sorted that and then once I committed it was fine. I seconded Matt on another couple of routes before having a play on another E4 6a TR set up by Elliot. I was pleased to do the crux move in one flash attempt although I flunked the next move despite the beta being shouted from below (not that left your other left!).
We finished off the day by going for a swim. The look on my dogs face as I dived off a rock and disappeared under water was priceless, he swims all the time but he's never seen me go in before......very funny! to be fair, it was bloody freezing and I jumped back out probably quicker than I got in! Fair play to Matt who then decided to take the plunge from the top of the crag!
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| 'are you sure, it looks freezing'!! |
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| The stunning location that is Armathwaite Crag on the river Eden |
Back to the Lancs quarries for an evening session and what a turnout! Apart from at Wiltonfest, I've never seen this place so busy. There was representation from 3 different clubs plus a spattering of solo groups and pretty much all but the really hard stuff got climbed, superb! I climbed with Kate from LMC who I've never climbed with before and we got 4 routes done, 2 leads each, nothing more than VS 4b. Connies weren't the best it being warm and muggy, so friction was at a premium and in fact non existent on the more polished routes making them feel hard for the grade. Had great fun though and was particularly pleased to lead Tea Leaf VS 4b. No gear til about 2/3rds height so it was good to get out of my comfort zone and see how the head training was going. It was fine, no problems at all. We then watched a 3 months pregnant Kate flash an E3 6a on TR, very very impressive!
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| a very busy Wilton 3, me seconding Kate on Justine S 4a |
So, in summary, where am I at? to be fair, I'm in a good place right now. I feel things are working. I've identified my mental weaknesses and have a plan and some techniques to work on and that is making me feel a whole lot better about this climbing malarkey. For the first time in a wee while, I'm really enjoying myself!
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